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a tired, messy wander through rostov-on-don

@Yannick Roy2/6/2026blog
a tired, messy wander through rostov-on-don

i've been in rostov-on-don for a few days now and i'm still trying to wrap my head around it. the city sprawls along the don river, a massive gateway that's been linking central russia to the caucasus for centuries. i'm typing this with cold fingers because i just checked and it's -2.9°c right now, feels like -9.9°c, humidity 88%, pressure 1015; there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. here's where we are:

i arrived by train from volgograd, which is one of those cities you hear about in history books, and the contrast is striking. the landscape is flat - typical pontic-caspian steppe - with those rich black soils (chernozem) that probably feed a huge chunk of russia. you can see why agriculture is big here. the donets coal basin is over there to the north, and that's been feeding industry for ages. speaking of industry, this place is a port, a railway hub, a pipeline crossroads. it's a logistical beast, honestly. the history is tangled. founded in 1749 by empress elizabeth as a customs house - basically a checkpoint on the river - it grew into a trading port that cossacks used heavily. they call it the "gateway to the caucasus" because it was the launch point for trade and military movements south. in 1952, the volga-don shipping canal opened, linking the don to the volga and thus to the whole russian river network. that turned it into an even bigger port. it got the title "city of military glory" in 2008, and you still see war memorials scattered around. oh, and it hosted some 2018 fifa world cup matches, which added a few modern stadiums and hotels. the climate? humid continental, but because it's far south, it's a bit milder than moscow. summers get hot - july averages around 25-30°c i think, but i'm here in winter and it's biting. today's low is -2.9, feels worse. humidity is high, around 72% on average, but right now it's 88% so everything feels damp and cold. rainfall is moderate, 560-618 mm a year, spread out. daylight swings a lot - in summer you get up to 16 hours, in winter only 8. that makes sense at this latitude. neighbors: if you get bored, donetsk and luhansk regions (in ukraine) are just a short drive west. also volgograd and voronezh oblasts are north, krasnodar and stavropol krais south, and kalmyakia east. you could practically day-trip to the caucasus mountains if you wanted, but i haven't yet. tourist stuff: i've been wandering along the riverfront, which is surprisingly pleasant. here's a pic of a building that caught my eye:

a large white building with a cross on top of it

there's a big stadium from the world cup - rostov arena - that's impressive even if you're not a football fan. they talk about cossack heritage; there's a cossack museum somewhere, i haven't found it yet but someone told me that the traditions are still alive in the markets, you can buy traditional hats and blankets. there's also the old fort, maybe? i need to look up. cooking is influenced by the agricultural region - sunflower oil is huge here. they produce a third of russia's sunflower oil, so everything is cooked with it. wheat, grains, typical steppe food. no fancy dishes come to mind, but i had a decent borscht with a sunflower oil base. population: about 1.1 million, making it russia's tenth largest city and the biggest in the south. languages? russian dominates, but you'll hear armenian and ukrainian around reflecting the diverse groups that settled here. it's a cultural and educational center, with several universities. things to be aware: the proximity to eastern ukraine is a bit of a sore subject. you'll notice some tensions in conversations, and there's military presence near the border - not in the city centre, but you see it. also, the weather is no joke - winters are cold and damp, summers hot and humid. as a major transport hub, traffic can be nuts, both on roads and at the port. but that also means the city feels alive with commerce. distinctive bits: nicknamed "gateway to the caucasus" and "city of military glory", it's a mix of industry, cossack pride, and modern events. it's not a pretty tourist postcard; it's gritty, functional, but there's a certain charm in that. the skyline is dotted with old soviet blocks next to new glass buildings, and the river gives a nice backdrop. here's another shot of the cityscape:

white and brown concrete building under blue sky during daytime

i've been meaning to visit the nearby donetsk coal basin area, but that's across the border and might be complicated now. someone told me that the best time to come is late spring, when the steppe greens up, but i'm here in the dead of winter. honestly, i kind of like the starkness. the wind off the don is sharp, and the humidity makes the cold settle in your bones. if you ever find yourself driving through southern russia, don't just pass through rostov-on-don. grab a bowl of soup, walk along the embankment, maybe catch a football game, and feel the mix of histories that this city holds. and here's a little glimpse of a typical house:

a house with a blue roof

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About the author: Yannick Roy

Believer in lifelong learning (and unlearning).

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