Accra Diaries: Sweat, Beats, and the Smell of Fried Plantain

Accra’s got this way of grabbing you by the collar and not letting go. i landed here with a suitcase full of drum heads and zero expectations, and now i’m leaving with a head full of rhythms i can’t quite place and a sunburn that’s definitely going to peel. the weather? yeah, i just checked and it’s 29°C and feels like 35°C right now, hope you like that kind of thing. humidity’s at 79%, so every step feels like walking through warm soup. but honestly, that’s part of the charm.

i’ve been crashing in Osu, which is loud, colorful, and smells like fried plantain 24/7. someone told me that if you get bored, Tema and Cape Coast are just a short drive away. i haven’t tested that theory yet, but i’ve heard Tema’s beaches are way less crowded and Cape Coast has this haunting slave castle that’ll ruin your day in the best way.

i’ve been hitting up +233 Jazz Bar for live sets, and let me tell you, the drummer there plays like he’s trying to summon thunder. i overheard a local say the sound guy’s always tweaking the mix because “the spirits like it loud.” i don’t know if that’s true, but i like the idea.

food-wise, i’ve been living off kelewele from street vendors. it’s basically spicy fried plantain, and it’s dangerous how good it is. someone warned me that the best spot is a tiny stall near Oxford Street, but honestly, they’re all good. just follow your nose.

i tried to rent a bike to get around, but the roads here are… let’s say “adventurous.” a guy at my hostel told me that biking is only for “those who want to meet jesus early,” so i’ve been sticking to shared taxis. they’re cheap, chaotic, and half the fun is arguing over the fare.

if you’re into markets, Makola Market is a sensory overload in the best way. i got lost for two hours and came out with a drum, a bag of spices, and a new friend who kept calling me “brother.” i heard that the textile section is where you can find the best deals, but you gotta haggle like your life depends on it.

and yeah, the reviews i’ve overheard are all over the place. one person said Accra’s nightlife is “nonstop and wild,” while another said it’s “just a bunch of guys yelling over loud speakers.” both are probably true, depending on the night.

anyway, Accra’s not a place you visit-it’s a place that visits you. it’ll stick to your skin, your clothes, and your memory. and honestly? i’m here for it.

for more on Accra’s music scene, check out [Accra [dot] com](https://www.accra.com/music) or Ghana Tourism Authority.