Accra, Ghana: Sweat, Fried Plantain, and a Whole Lotta Hustle
okay, so. accra. wow. just…wow. i’m still peeling the dust off my brain, honestly. i’m a botanist, right? usually, i’m all about quiet observation, meticulously cataloging leaf structures and soil composition. accra? it’s the opposite of quiet. it’s a full-on sensory assault in the best possible way.
I just checked and the air feels like a warm hug that’s slowly turning into a sauna. twenty-seven point four degrees, they say. feels like twenty-six. humidity’s clinging to everything like a lovesick gecko. i’m pretty sure my hair has achieved sentience.
I was here for a research project - some obscure medicinal plant they’re cultivating near *Cape Coast. It’s fascinating stuff, but honestly, the city itself stole the show. Forget pristine botanical gardens; this is botany in overdrive. Plants bursting out of every crack in the pavement, vibrant bougainvillea spilling over walls, mango trees heavy with fruit…it’s chaotic, beautiful, and utterly alive.
I spent a lot of time wandering around Makola Market. Seriously, a lot. It’s…an experience. The smells! The sounds! The sheer volume of stuff! I got completely lost, multiple times. Someone told me that if you look like you’re lost, they’ll offer to “help” you find your way…for a small fee, of course. It’s all part of the charm, i guess. I ended up buying a ridiculous amount of fabric and some spices i have no idea how to use.
“Don’t trust anyone who offers you a ‘special’ deal on kente cloth near the market. They’re probably trying to sell you a knock-off.”
I’m staying in a little guesthouse in Osu. It’s basic, but clean, and the woman who runs it, Auntie Ama, makes the best jollof rice i’ve ever tasted. Seriously, i’m going to dream about that rice for weeks. If you get bored, Kumasi and Takoradi are just a short drive away - apparently, they have different vibes entirely.
I tried to find some decent coffee. That was…a challenge. I ended up at this place called “The Bean Scene” - it was okay, but definitely not up to my usual standards. I overheard a couple of guys arguing about the best way to roast cocoa beans. Apparently, it’s a serious topic. I’m thinking of starting a blog just about the coffee situation here.
Here’s a quick rundown of things I learned (mostly the hard way):
*Bargaining is essential. Don’t accept the first price you’re given. Smile, be polite, and walk away if you need to.
*Tro tros are an adventure. Public transport is…interesting. Hold on tight and be prepared for anything. Check out this guide to Ghanaian Tro Tros.
*Wear light, breathable clothing. Seriously. You’ll thank me later.
*Learn a few basic Twi phrases. It goes a long way. “Medaase” (thank you) is a good place to start.
*Be aware of your surroundings. Like any big city, petty theft can be an issue. Keep your valuables close.
*Eat the plantain. Fried plantain is a national treasure. Don’t even question it.
I spent an afternoon wandering around James Town*, which is…rough around the edges, but has a really fascinating history. The old British fort is incredible, and the fishing community is vibrant. I found a really cool little art gallery there - check out their work on this local arts board.
Someone else, a very drunk gentleman at a bar, advised me to “watch out for the taxi drivers - they’ll rip you off if you let them.” He also offered to teach me how to play oware. I politely declined both offers.
I’m already planning my return trip. Accra isn’t for the faint of heart, but it’s a place that gets under your skin. It’s loud, it’s chaotic, it’s beautiful, and it’s utterly unforgettable. I’m leaving with a suitcase full of fabric, a head full of memories, and a serious craving for jollof rice. Read more about Accra on TripAdvisor.
Oh, and one last thing: the pressure is 1012, humidity is 9, and the ground level pressure is 974. Don’t ask me why i know that. It’s accra, anything can happen.