Accra, Ghana: Sweat, Plantains, and a Whole Lotta Hustle

okay, so. accra. wow. i’m still peeling the dust off my brain, honestly. i just checked and it’s…a simmering pot of sunshine right now, hope you like that kind of thing. thirty-one degrees, feels like thirty-point-oh-seven. not gonna lie, i was sweating through my vintage band tee before i even left the Airbnb.

I’m a botanist, you see. Not the tweed-wearing, monocle-sporting kind. More the “wandering around with a notebook and a desperate need for caffeine” kind. I came here chasing rumors of a rare orchid, Bulbophyllum accrense, supposedly thriving in the rainforest just outside the city. Didn’t find it, sadly. But I found…a lot.

This trip was a bit of a last-minute thing. My grant application got rejected (again!), and I was staring down the barrel of another winter spent cataloging moss in a damp basement. So, I sold a few cuttings, booked a flight, and here I am.

Accra is…intense. The energy is palpable. Everyone’s doing something. Hustling. Selling. Building. I spent a good hour just watching a guy assemble furniture out of scrap wood on the side of the road. It was mesmerizing. The traffic is…well, let’s just say you learn to embrace the chaos. Honking is a language here. A very loud, very insistent language.

I stayed in Labone, which was a good base. Pretty central, easy to get around. Found a fantastic little spot for jollof rice - Mama Esi’s. Seriously, go. You won’t regret it. I overheard a couple of guys arguing about whether Ghanaian or Nigerian jollof is better. It got heated. Apparently, it’s a national debate.

“Don’t trust anyone who says they know the best street food in Accra. Everyone has an opinion, and they’ll tell you about it at length.”

Speaking of opinions, someone told me that the Makola Market is “an experience.” They weren’t wrong. It’s…a lot. A sensory overload. Smells, sounds, colors, people everywhere. I got completely lost, but in a good way. Found some incredible fabrics and spices. Definitely haggle. It’s expected. And be prepared to be offered everything under the sun.

I tried to find some reliable information on the Bulbophyllum accrense online. The Ghana Wildlife Society website is pretty informative: https://www.ghanaswildlifesociety.org/. Also, TripAdvisor has some decent reviews of local tour operators if you’re planning a trip into the rainforest: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g323523-Accra_Greater_Accra_Region.html. Yelp isn’t huge here, but you can find a few gems: https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=restaurants&find_loc=Accra%2C+Ghana.

I also spent a day exploring the Aburi Botanical Gardens. A little escape from the city. Beautiful orchids, towering trees, and a surprising number of monkeys. Apparently, they’re notorious for stealing snacks. I learned that the hard way.

“The monkeys in Aburi are pickpockets. Seriously. Guard your plantain chips with your life.”

If you get bored, Kumasi and Cape Coast are just a short drive away. I didn’t have time to make it to either, but I’ve heard great things about the Kakum National Park near Cape Coast.

One thing I noticed - the air quality isn’t the best. Definitely bring a good face mask if you’re sensitive. And drink tons of water. Seriously. You’ll dehydrate faster than you think.

I’m already planning my return trip. Next time, I’m bringing a bigger notebook, a better camera, and a whole lot more mosquito repellent. And I’m definitely finding that orchid.

Oh, and one last thing. I heard that the nightlife in Osu is…lively. Apparently, there are some great bars and clubs. Didn’t get a chance to check it out myself, but I’ve heard it’s worth it.

Lonely Planet's Accra Guide

Accra, Ghana: Sweat, Plantains, and a Whole Lotta Hustle

You might also be interested in:

About the author: Lucas Grant

Comments (0)

Join the conversation

Comments (0)

Join the conversation