Amritsar Diaries: Where the Golden Temple Glows and the Streets Never Sleep

someone told me that the best way to experience amritsar is to wake up hungry, wear shoes you can walk in all day, and never say no to a second cup of chai. i'm inclined to agree. this city doesn't hand you a neat itinerary-it throws you in the deep end and expects you to doggy paddle. and somehow, you do.