ankara: a tired, cold, and surprisingly human capital

so, i'm sitting in a cafe in ankara, typing this. it's cold outside, like properly cold for april. i just checked the weather on my phone: 4.58°c, feels like 3.42°c, with a high of 4.68 and low of 2.62. pressure is 1020 hpa, humidity 73%. hope you like that kind of thing. it's not raining, but the air is damp and chilly. this city has a way of making you feel the elements, being on this high plateau.

ankara, turkey's capital, isn't what i expected. i thought it would be all grand government buildings, but it's more... human, in a tired way. located at 39°55′44″n 32°51′17″e, it's smack in the center of anatolia. the geography is a bowl, encircled by the ak mountains. that's why the air feels trapped sometimes. the çubuk brook flows through, but it's not much of a river. anyway, here's a map to give you a sense:

see how it's inland? no coastline, just steppe stretching out. someone told me that when they made ankara the capital in 1923, it was a small town. now it's a metropolis of 5.25 million in the urban area, 5.86 in the province. that's massive growth from rural migration. you see all sorts of people here, from villagers to students to bureaucrats.

the history is layered. originally ancyra, founded by galatians on a lava outcrop. romans, byzantines, seljuks all left their mark. the castle is the oldest part, sitting on that rock. i visited it, and the views are panoramic, but the climb is steep. here's a photo that captures the old-meets-new vibe:

brown concrete under blue sky - that's ankara for you. not the most photogenic, but honest.

climate is cold semi-arid, koppen bsk. summers are brutal, i've read, up to 38°c, dry as a bone. winters? january averages -4 to 4°c, but lows to -25°c. i'm here in spring, and it's already nippy. annual rainfall is 35 cm, mostly in may and december. so, expect dry air most of the year. the breezes are mild, which helps, but the temperature swings are no joke. with the high altitude - 938 meters - you feel the thin air sometimes.

if you get bored of the city, neighboring provinces are close. eskişehir to the west, known for its thermal springs and university town vibe. bolu and çankırı to the north, with forests and hills. kırıkkale and kırşehir to the east, more steppe. konya to the south, famous for mevlana and whirling dervishes. aksaray too, with its cappadocia connections. short drives for a different atmosphere.

ankara is a science and tech hub. universities like metu and hacettepe draw students from all over. the city has 72 square meters of green space per person, which is impressive given the arid surroundings. but the topography makes it a bowl, so pollution can linger. air quality might not be great, especially in winter.

cuisine is traditional anatolian. they're known for pears, honey, and muscat grapes. i had a pear dessert that was subtle and sweet. not the street food of istanbul, but hearty. someone told me that the local dish is tandır kebabı, but i haven't tried it yet.

the population is diverse. due to migration from rural areas, you get a mix of cultures. it's not uniformly turkish; there are kurds, circassians, others. this leads to a cultural blend, but also some tensions, i hear. gossip has it that the city is split between secularists and more religious folks, but i'm not here to judge.

attractions beyond the castle: national library, state theatre, presidential symphony orchestra. modern architecture alongside old. eesenboğa airport is nearby. the city is a crossroads for trade, with key rail and road networks.

distinctive features: it's a purpose-built capital. unlike istanbul, which grew organically, ankara was planned. that shows in the wide boulevards and zoning. but it lacks the historical charm of older cities. it's functional, green in patches, and always busy.

things to be aware: the weather extremes, as i said. also, being inland, no sea breezes. the altitude might affect you if you have health issues. and it's a big city, so traffic and crowds are real.

i'm getting tired now. my back hurts from sitting. maybe i should go find that honey shop someone recommended. ankara, you're... a confusing mix of boring and fascinating. i guess that's why i like it? not sure.

anyway, if you visit, come prepared for all weathers. and talk to locals - they have stories. someone told me that the city's growth was explosive in the 50s and 60s, with shantytowns popping up. now it's more regulated, but the legacy remains.

i'll end here. need to rest. ankara, you're a messy, human place, and i'm just passing through.

here's another shot, this time at night:

and an aerial view to see the sprawl:

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