Antalya After Dark (and Slightly Damp Days)
okay, so antalya. it’s…a lot. i landed with absolutely zero expectations, just a vague memory of someone mentioning beaches and a really long flight number - 315515, if anyone’s keeping track (don’t). i’m a freelance photographer, usually chasing light in abandoned buildings, but my agent (bless her chaotic soul) decided i needed “sun and culture.”
first impressions? humid. like, walking-through-soup humid. the weather report said 14.81 degrees Celsius, feels like 14.17, pressure at 1012, humidity at 70%, sea level also 1012, and ground level at 987. honestly, it just feels sticky. i just checked and it's perpetually overcast, with a light drizzle threatening to turn into something more dramatic. hope you're into that sort of thing.
spent the first day wandering *Kaleiçi, the old town. it’s…picturesque, i guess. cobblestone streets, crumbling ottoman houses, cats everywhere. seriously, everywhere. i swear one tried to steal my croissant. i overheard someone at a cafe complaining about the tourists, saying they’ve “ruined the authenticity.” classic. i also heard that the best baklava is at a tiny place near the Hadrian’s Gate, but you have to know the owner’s cousin to get a table. TripAdvisor has some reviews, but take them with a mountain of salt.
my accommodation is…an experience. it’s a guesthouse run by a woman named Ayşe who communicates primarily through gestures and very loud pronouncements. she keeps offering me tea and trying to set me up with her nephew, who apparently is a “very successful fishmonger.” if you get bored, Kas and Kemer are just a short dolmuş ride away.
spent yesterday trying to photograph the Düden Waterfalls. it’s pretty spectacular, but also swarming with people taking selfies. i managed to get a few decent shots, though. someone warned me about pickpockets in that area, so keep your wallet close. i also stumbled upon a local market - the smells were incredible. spices, olives, fresh bread… i bought way too much. Yelp has some listings if you're looking for a good place to get lost.
“Don’t trust the guys selling carpets. They’ll tell you anything to make a sale.”
that’s what a bartender told me last night. he also recommended a hidden hamam* (turkish bath) but refused to tell me where it was, saying it was a “secret for locals.” i’m starting to think everyone here has a secret.
overall? antalya is…complicated. it’s beautiful and chaotic, welcoming and slightly intimidating. it’s definitely not the sterile, curated travel experience i usually avoid, and honestly, that’s a good thing. i’m still trying to figure out if i like it, or if it’s just wearing me down. i’ve been checking out local forums to get a better feel for the place. i think i need more tea. and maybe a bodyguard for the carpet shops. Booking.com has a ton of options for places to stay, if Ayşe’s guesthouse isn’t your vibe.