Baidoa: My Camera, Chaos & the Gigs That Didn't Happen
so i landed in baidoa with my camera and a backpack full of lenses i barely use. first thing you notice? the dust. it gets everywhere. my camera's got more dust inside than a forgotten attic. rent? well, it's cheaper than back home, but then again, nothing's really 'cheap' when you're earning in dollars and spending in shillings. the locals are cool though - they'll tell you straight up if your shot sucks, which is more than i can say for some gallery owners.
the job market? if you're not shooting for an aid org or a wedding, good luck. but hey, if you're a freelancer, you might luck into something. heard about this one gig for a local politician's rally. paid in goats? not even kidding. passed.
safety? look, i'm not gonna lie. you gotta be on your toes. but the same could be said for any city. just don't be flashy with your gear. wrapped my camera in a sack when walking around. made me look like a farmer carrying potatoes. which, by the way, is a great disguise.
right now, the weather's doing this thing where it's hot as hell during the day and then the wind kicks up and blows dust so hard it feels like a sandblasting session. my photographer friends in hargaysa - just a short flight away (or a long, bumpy drive if you're into that sort of punishment) - say it's even worse there. whatever. i'm here for the shots, not the comfort.
found this one spot near the market that's got this incredible light at sunset. the way the dust catches the sun? it's like the sky is on fire. but then again, everything here is either covered in dust or trying to escape it.
> "that photographer? yeah, he shoots everything but the truth. if you want real pictures, look at the cracks in the walls. they tell the real story."
> "man, if you wanna make it big, you gotta shoot the goats. they're the real celebrities here. everyone's got a goat story."
oh, and the locals warned me about this one cafe called 'the dust bunny'. they said the tea is strong but the wifi is a myth. went. they were right. the tea was strong, though. like, wake-you-up-from-a-coma strong.
if you're planning a trip, check out the tripadvisor page for baidoa - though i'm not sure how updated it is. and for food, the yelp page for baidoa is basically useless, but hey, maybe someone will update it. for real talk, hit up the somalia subreddit or the horn of africa travel subreddit. those guys know what's up.
so, yeah. baidoa. it's not for everyone, but if you're a photographer looking for something raw, it's here. just bring a lot of lens cleaning wipes.
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