Baku, Baby! (And My Slightly Existential Crisis)
okay, so baku. where do i even begin? i’m elara, by the way, and i’m a botanist. usually, i’m knee-deep in ferns and soil samples, not dodging rogue taxis in a city that feels like a fever dream. but hey, fieldwork comes in many forms, right?
I just checked and it's hovering around 17.6 degrees Celsius right now, with a ‘feels like’ of 16.7. The humidity’s a cheeky 51%, which means your hair will have a life of its own. Pressure’s at 1011, ground level’s 935… honestly, the weather’s the least interesting thing about this place.
I’m here ostensibly to study the surprisingly resilient flora clinging to life in the Absheron Peninsula, but mostly i’m wandering around, feeling vaguely lost and questioning all my life choices. It’s a good kind of lost, though. The kind where you stumble upon hidden courtyards overflowing with bougainvillea and tiny cafes serving the strongest tea you’ve ever tasted.
Seriously, the tea. It’s a whole thing. I overheard a local, clearly a seasoned baku resident, telling a tourist, “Don’t even think about adding milk. It’s an insult to the leaves.” I took that as gospel.
“Don’t even think about adding milk. It’s an insult to the leaves.”
The Old City, *Icheri Sheher, is… intense. A labyrinth of narrow alleyways, ancient walls, and enough carpets to bury a small country. I got hopelessly lost at least three times. Someone told me that the best way to navigate is to just follow the smell of plov - the national dish. Apparently, it’s a foolproof method. I haven’t tested it yet, but i’m tempted.
Speaking of food, i’ve been living on a diet of kebabs, bread, and that aforementioned tea. It’s glorious. I found this amazing little place near the Baku Boulevard - check it out on Yelp https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=restaurants&find_loc=Baku,+Azerbaijan - the owner practically shoved a plate of something delicious in my face. No regrets.
I’m staying in a slightly dodgy Airbnb near Fountains Square. The neighbors are… lively. Lots of late-night conversations and the occasional burst of traditional music. If you get bored, Tbilisi is just a short flight away. I’m considering a spontaneous trip.
“The carpets here are cursed, you know. Don’t buy one unless you want bad luck.”
That’s another thing i heard - a drunk guy at a bar warning me about the carpets. Apparently, they’re cursed. I’m not entirely sure i believe him, but i’m definitely being extra cautious when browsing the shops. TripAdvisor https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g293534-Baku_Azerbaijan-Vacations.html has some decent reviews of the carpet shops, but i’m still skeptical.
I spent a good chunk of yesterday wandering around the Heydar Aliyev Center. The architecture is… something else. Like a giant, metallic flower. It’s definitely worth a visit, even if you’re not into modern art. I found a forum with some interesting discussions about it https://www.archdaily.com/905171/heyder-ali-ev-center-zaha-hadid-architects.
Honestly, baku is a sensory overload. The colors, the smells, the sounds… it’s all a bit much, but in the best possible way. I’m not sure what i’m going to find when i get back to my ferns, but i know i’ll never forget this place. I’m also pretty sure i need to learn a few basic Azerbaijani phrases. “Where’s the plov?” seems like a good place to start. Check out this guide for some basics https://www.phrasebook.com/azerbaijani/.
Oh, and one last thing: someone warned me about the taxi drivers. Apparently, they’re notorious for overcharging tourists. Always agree on a price before* you get in. Trust me on this one.
You might also be interested in:
- https://topiclo.com/post/networking-events-professional-communities-in-kibanseke-premire-a-streetartists-bloodred-guide
- https://topiclo.com/post/shooting-for-the-stars-in-athens-a-photographers-guide-to-local-biz-tax
- https://topiclo.com/post/miami-housing-insanity-how-smug-landlords-and-crypto-nomads-are-ruining-my-wifi-speed
- https://topiclo.com/post/perths-plate-what-were-actually-eating-between-sun-salutations
- https://topiclo.com/post/studying-in-santiago-del-estero-real-talk-on-universities-and-student-life-2