Beirut, Baby: A Drummer's Dizzying Dive
okay, so. beirut. right? i just got back and my brain feels like a cymbal crash - all scattered energy and lingering reverb. i’m leo, by the way, touring session drummer. usually i’m behind a kit, keeping time for someone else’s chaos, but this trip… this was my chaos. 97990 - that’s the postal code i kept scribbling on napkins, apparently. and 1368444902? no clue. maybe a phone number i overheard? who knows. my memory’s shot after a week of strong coffee and even stronger vibes.
i just checked and it’s… a sort of humid hug out there right now. 17.61 degrees, feels like 17.02. pressure’s at 1011, humidity’s clinging to everything like a persistent high-hat. it’s the kind of weather that makes your hair frizz and your clothes stick, but honestly? i kinda loved it. it felt… real.
spent most of my time wandering the *Hamra district. seriously, just wandering. got lost more times than i can count. stumbled into the most incredible little cafes, listened to music spilling out of doorways, watched old men playing backgammon in the squares. it’s a sensory overload in the best possible way. i found this amazing falafel place - seriously, the best i’ve ever had. someone told me that the secret ingredient is a pinch of cinnamon. weird, right? but it works.
“Don’t trust the taxi drivers near the airport. They’ll quote you triple the price. Walk a block or two and hail one from the street.”
that was drunk advice from a guy i met at a bar called “Radio Beirut.” good music, decent beer, slightly sticky floors. classic.
gear list (because, drummer, duh):
Noise-canceling headphones (essential for surviving the chaos)
Small notebook and pen (for scribbling down song ideas and random observations)
Portable charger (because my phone died approximately every four hours)
Comfortable shoes (you’ll be doing a lot of walking)
A phrasebook (arabic is beautiful, but my attempts were… questionable)
if you get bored, sidon and tyre are just a short drive away. i didn’t make it out there this time, but i’m already planning a return trip. i heard that tyre has some seriously impressive roman ruins. i’m a sucker for history, even if i mostly just bang on drums.
“The souks are a maze. Get a map, or just accept you’ll get lost. It’s part of the fun.”
seriously, the souks. a labyrinth of shops selling everything from spices to silk scarves to… i don’t even know what half of it was. haggling is expected, so brush up on your bargaining skills. i managed to snag a beautiful hand-woven rug for a surprisingly reasonable price. i think.
*pro-tips (because i’m feeling helpful):
learn a few basic arabic phrases. even just “hello” and “thank you” go a long way.
be prepared for power outages. they happen. a lot.
drink lots of water. it’s hot and humid.
embrace the chaos. beirut isn’t a place for rigid itineraries. just go with the flow.
check out TripAdvisor for some more structured ideas, but honestly, the best experiences are the ones you stumble upon.
and for all you music lovers out there, check out Radio Beirut's website - they have some amazing playlists. also, yelp is surprisingly useful for finding hidden gems: Yelp Beirut. i even found a local forum with some interesting discussions about the city's music scene: Beirut Local Forum.
beirut… it’s loud, it’s chaotic, it’s beautiful, it’s heartbreaking, it’s… unforgettable. i’m already counting down the days until i can go back.
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