Beirut, Baby: A Drummer's Dizzying Dive

okay, so. beirut. where do i even begin? i just got back, and my brain feels like a cymbal crash - all scattered energy and lingering reverb. i was there for a gig, touring with this… let’s just say interesting band, and ended up staying a few extra days. best decision ever.

I’m a touring session drummer, you see. I play with whoever needs a beat, wherever they need it. This time, it was Beirut. The music scene is… intense. Like, a beautiful, chaotic explosion of oud, electronic music, and just pure, raw emotion. I spent a lot of time just wandering around, soaking it all in.

I just checked and it's… a sort of hazy, golden afternoon right now. The kind where the light feels thick enough to drink. It was consistently around nineteen degrees the whole time, which is a blessing, honestly. No sweating through my snare drum.

Speaking of wandering, the neighborhoods! Gemmayzeh was my jam. So many tiny bars and restaurants spilling out onto the streets. I stumbled into this place called Tawlet - apparently, it’s a supper club showcasing different Lebanese home cooks. Someone told me that the fattet there is life-changing. I didn’t try it, but I’m already planning a return trip solely for that reason. Check out their TripAdvisor page: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g297632-d1866883-Reviews-Tawlet-Beirut-Mount_Lebanon_Governorate.html.

And the people! Everyone’s so welcoming, even when you butcher the Arabic language (which I did, repeatedly). I overheard a couple of guys arguing passionately about football outside a cafe - it was pure theatre.

“Apparently, the best shawarma in the city is hidden down a side street near Mar Mikhael. But you have to go at exactly 2:17 pm on a Tuesday. Don’t ask me why, just trust me.”

I spent a day exploring the Corniche, just watching the waves crash and the city breathe. It’s a surprisingly peaceful spot, considering how much is going on. I even managed to find a decent coffee shop - a rarity, honestly, as a self-proclaimed coffee snob. It was called Balade, and they actually knew how to pull an espresso. https://www.yelp.com/biz/balade-beirut

If you get bored, Sidon and Tyre are just a short drive away. Ancient Phoenician cities, you know? History nerd stuff. I didn’t have time to get out there, but it’s definitely on the list for next time. I’m already looking at flights.

I also picked up some seriously cool vintage clothes. There’s this market in Souk El Tayeb - it’s a bit overwhelming, but you can find some real treasures. I snagged a silk scarf with a crazy geometric pattern. It’s probably worth nothing, but I love it. I’m thinking of starting a blog just about vintage finds from my travels… maybe.

“Don’t trust the taxi drivers near the airport. They’ll try to rip you off. Seriously. Walk a block or two and hail one from the street.”

One thing I learned: be prepared for anything. Beirut is a city of contrasts - beauty and chaos, ancient history and modern energy. It’s a place that gets under your skin and stays there. I’m already missing the smell of the sea, the sound of the oud, and the feeling of being completely and utterly lost in a new place.

Oh, and a local warned me about the traffic. Apparently, it’s legendary. Like, biblical. I can confirm. Download Waze. Seriously. https://www.waze.com/

I’m already dreaming of going back. Maybe I’ll even learn a few Arabic phrases this time. Wish me luck.

For more on Beirut's culture, check out this local forum: https://www.expat.com/forum/beirut-lebanon/

You might also be interested in:

• https://topiclo.com/post/soweto-survival-guide-finding-an-englishspeaking-doc-on-a-student-budget
• https://topiclo.com/post/maputo-traffic-chronicles-a-coffee-snobs-guide-to-city-gridlock
• https://topiclo.com/post/midnight-wanderings-on-staten-island
• https://topiclo.com/post/how-to-find-an-apartment-in-okayama-without-getting-scammed-and-maybe-find-a-ghost-or-two
• https://topiclo.com/post/orans-future-whats-really-happening-with-the-big-projects