Bogota, Colombia: Where the Air Tastes Like Rain and Regret (Maybe?)
okay, so. bogota. i’m still processing. i just got back, and my brain feels like a tangled mess of arepas and altitude sickness. i’m a touring session drummer, you know? I’m used to chaos, to being thrown into new cities with a few hours to learn a setlist and pretend i belong. but this… this was different.
first off, the weather. i just checked and it’s… a damp hug right now. 33.95 degrees, feels like 40.06 with the humidity. it’s that kind of sticky heat that clings to you like a bad memory. pressure’s at 1009, humidity’s 55%. basically, pack a poncho and a whole lot of patience.
I was here for a gig - a weird corporate thing for some telecom company. the pay was decent, but the vibe… the vibe was something else. i stayed in La Candelaria, which is… intense. cobblestone streets, graffiti everywhere, stray dogs judging your life choices. it’s beautiful, in a gritty, slightly unsettling way. someone told me that the area used to be a lot rougher, but now it’s mostly just tourists and artists trying to make a living.
food. oh god, the food. arepas, empanadas, bandeja paisa (seriously, don’t even think about ordering that unless you’re starving). i spent a ridiculous amount of money on coffee. i’m a drummer, not a coffee snob, but the stuff they have here… it’s on another level. i found this tiny place, Cafe Amor Perfecto, tucked away on a side street. the barista looked like he’d seen things. he made me a cortado that changed my life. check it out if you're in the area: https://www.yelp.com/biz/cafe-amor-perfecto-bogota
“Don’t trust the pigeons. They’re watching you.”
That’s what a drunk guy told me outside a bar. i didn’t ask for clarification. i just nodded and went inside.
I spent a day wandering around Usaquén, which is a bit more upscale. It’s got a nice little flea market on Sundays. I picked up a vintage leather jacket for like, twenty bucks. score! if you're into that kind of thing, check out https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g319335-Activities-Usaquen_Bogota.html.
neighbors? if you get bored of bogota, medellin and cali are just a few hours away by bus. i didn’t have time to go, but i’ve heard good things.
gear list (because, you know, drummer brain):
My trusty Ludwig kit (obviously)
Noise-canceling headphones (essential for surviving corporate gigs)
A good poncho (seriously, the rain)
Spanish phrasebook (my Spanish is… rudimentary)
A small notebook for jotting down random thoughts and overheard gossip
pro-tips:
Learn a few basic Spanish phrases. it goes a long way.
Be aware of your surroundings. pickpocketing is apparently a thing.
Don’t drink the tap water.
Embrace the chaos. bogota is not a city for the faint of heart.
Try the ajiaco. it’s a chicken and potato soup, and it’s surprisingly delicious.
I heard that the Gold Museum is amazing, but i didn’t make it there. next time, maybe. i also saw a bunch of street art tours advertised - https://www.viator.com/Bogota-tours/Street-Art-Tours/d723-g11 - that might be cool.
overall? bogota is… complicated. it’s beautiful and chaotic and a little bit scary. it’s a city that gets under your skin, even if you don’t quite understand why. i’m glad i went, but i’m also glad to be home. for now.
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