Breathing (or Trying To) in Onitsha: Air Quality & Life Here
okay, so onitsha. right? let's talk air. it’s… an experience. not a good one, honestly. i’m trying to get a handle on the environmental health situation here because, well, it’s a huge part of the whole vibe.
i'm a freelance photographer, and i'm constantly thinking about light, but lately, it feels like i'm battling a haze. it’s not just dust, though there’s plenty of that. it’s a film of… something. pollution, clearly. you can feel it in your chest some days. the kind of air that makes you crave an air purifier, even when you’re just trying to grab a quick egusi soup.
i did some digging. and honestly, it’s not pretty. according to the World Air Quality Index (WAQI), Onitsha regularly exceeds acceptable levels of PM2.5 - those tiny, nasty particles that get everywhere. we're talking levels that consistently rank as 'unhealthy for sensitive groups.' apparently, the main culprits are industrial emissions, traffic (which is non-stop, let me tell you), and burning waste. a friend who’s a doctor said asthma cases are up, especially amongst kids. that's rough. maybe check out this article on Nigeria's Air Pollution Crisis for more details.
it’s making me question everything. i mean, i came here hoping to capture the energy, the story - and i am - but also, i want to be able to breathe without feeling like i’m inhaling a whole history of diesel fumes.
it's not all doom and gloom, though. there are pockets of green. i spotted a decent-sized park near the University of Nigeria - a little oasis. and the community gardens are popping up everywhere, which is cool. people are trying to make a difference, even if it feels like a drop in the ocean.
*The Market Haze: Seriously, the markets. They're a sensory overload, the colours, the smells… the sheer volume of people. But the air there? Forget about it. You’re breathing in a cocktail of spices, exhaust fumes, and… well, just general market activity. Someone once told me, "You get used to it. It's part of the Onitsha experience." i'm still not sure i'm used to it.
rent in Onitsha is surprisingly manageable. a decent 2-bedroom apartment can go for around $400-$600 a month, according to Numbeo. food is cheap - egusi soup, pounded yam, jollof rice… you name it. But the cost of clean water? That's another story. i'm mostly sticking to bottled water, which adds up. i've heard rumors from a few people on a Reddit Onitsha Forum about water scarcity in certain areas.
i tried to get some advice from Mama Ngozi, who runs a small tailoring shop near the main market. she's seen everything.
>“Ah, the air… it’s always been like this, my dear. Things are changing, though. The government is talking about new regulations. But change takes time. You just have to learn to live with it. And maybe wear a good scarf.”
she chuckled, adjusting her headscarf.
and then there's the noise. relentless. horns, hawkers, prayers from the mosques, music blasting from shops. it’s overwhelming at first, but you get… adjusted. you learn to filter it out. (mostly.)
The River’s Breath: The Niger River is close by and is a source of pride. It's also a major contributor to humidity, which, while often welcome, really amplifies the feeling of air density. It’s a good reminder, though, that there’s a powerful life force here, even if it’s battling against the pollution.
i’m not saying Onitsha is a toxic wasteland. it’s vibrant, chaotic, full of life. but the air quality is a real concern, and it’s something that needs to be addressed. maybe we all need to start demanding better from our leaders, and finding ways to reduce our own impact. in the meantime, i’m investing in some serious masks and hoping for a little rain. a local fisherman warned me that the haze gets really* bad during the dry season. apparently, it's almost suffocating.
it’s a complex city, Onitsha. beautiful and brutal, hopeful and heartbreaking. and the air… it’s just part of the whole story. i'm going to keep documenting it. hopefully, things will get better. i found a cool blog post about air quality initiatives in Nigeria - some good ideas there.
and if you're looking for a place to stay, check out TripAdvisor's Onitsha accommodation options.
it's a lot. i need a cold drink. and maybe a hazmat suit. just kidding... mostly.
You might also be interested in:
- https://topiclo.com/post/qom-survival-guide-living-in-the-holy-city-on-a-students-budget-or-how-i-learned-to-stop-worrying-and-love-the-heat
- https://topiclo.com/post/best-suburbs-in-bucaramanga-for-families-and-young-professionals
- https://topiclo.com/post/dust-threads-sunstroke-vintage-pickin-in-the-serengeti
- https://topiclo.com/post/melbourne-nightlife-through-a-cracked-lens-or-how-i-stopped-worrying-and-learned-to-love-the-sticky-floors
- https://topiclo.com/post/sorocaba-housing-rent-or-buy-a-chaotic-take-from-a-budget-student