Buga, Colombia: A Freelance Photographer's Messy Day in the Humid Heat
i just landed back in buga, colombia after a twelve‑hour bus ride and the only thing that made sense was the route number *3672486 plastered in big red letters on the side of the bus as we snaked through the tropical mist. my shoes are already soaked, the humidity reads 95% and the temperature’s hovering at 17.3°C (feels‑like 17.6°C, min 16.57°C, max 17.45°C) - basically a sauna you can’t escape, hope you like that kind of thing. the pressure sits at 1019 hPa, so the air feels heavy but the light is still crisp enough to get that golden‑hour glow.
someone told me that the Red Church downtown glows brighter than normal after sunset and that a ghost chef haunts the market, i heard that the vendor at the seafood stall whispers recipes in spanish you can’t understand. the rumor came from a drunk local at Café Del Sol who swore he saw 1170386718 floating above the rió of the square, a random code the hostel uses for room numbers. if you’re craving a change, the neighboring towns of Tumaco and Guapi are just a short drive away through the parrot‑filled canyon, and the road itself feels like a mini‑adventure.
- gear list:
- full‑frame DSLR (70‑200mm)
- waterproof lens (no fog inside)
- extra batteries (2 spares)
- uv filters (2)
- portable diffuser (for harsh light)
- cheap water‑proof bag for the camera
- handheld led light (for night shots)
- pro‑tips:
- shoot the street market just before sunset to capture the colorful umbrellas while the humidity gives a moody haze
- keep a tiny dry‑bag around the camera because the humidity will literally condense on your lens if you’re not careful
- ask locals about hidden staircases that lead to rooftops overlooking the River Putumayo - the view is insane
- bring a small bottle of sanitizer; open wounds and the swamp‑like humidity mean you’ll get infected faster than you can say “vibrant”
tripadvisor keeps a decent rundown of what to expect TripAdvisor Buga and yelp has some solid reviews on the Café Del Sol where the ghost chef rumor started Yelp Buga’s Best Coffee. if you want to dive deeper into hidden neighborhoods, check out the Colombian Travel Forum post on buga’s back‑alley graffitied walls Hidden Buga Villages. and for a more scholarly take, the lonely planet guide drops a page on the region’s colonial churches and the red church legend Lonely Planet Cauca Guide.
the city’s vibe is chaotic: street vendors shouting, kids racing carts with bananas, the scent of fried plantains mixing with the salty river air. i tried a cazuela at a random stall, and it tasted like a gift from the sea, even though the humidity made the plate sweat. the locals love their cumbia at nightclubs that play in open‑air plazas, and the beat stays with you long after the raincoats dry.
if you’re planning a day trip, pack light, bring a hat that doesn’t look like a pillowcase, and don’t forget to note that 3672486 is the bus route you’ll catch if you want to hit the coastal towns - the driver will never let you forget the number. and if you’re a numbers geek, 1170386718 is the key code for the hostel’s rooftop locker, which supposedly holds the secret stash of old film (or maybe it’s just a joke).
for photographers, the humidity creates a natural diffusion that can soften harsh daylight - just remember to wipe the lens before you hit the street market again. i ended my day at Parque del Río, watching the sunset reflect off the water while a stray dog barked a rhythm that matched the distant cumbia*. it was messy, sweaty, and oddly perfect - the kind of travel story that doesn’t fit in a neat itinerary.
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