Busking in Busan: Lost Beats and Spicy Noodles
okay, so busan. wow. i didn’t really know what to expect, honestly. i just saw a number - 1841810 - and thought, ‘why not?’ and then another one, 1410978753, felt like a good omen. i’m finn, by the way, and i’m a DIY busker. mostly harmonica and a beatbox, sometimes a ukulele if i’m feeling fancy.
right, busan. the weather’s… interesting. i just checked and it’s hovering around -0.77°c, feels like -0.77°c too. so, yeah, bring layers. seriously. i’m shivering just thinking about it. humidity’s a solid 86%, which means everything is damp. everything. my harmonica is practically weeping.
my first gig was in *Nampo-dong. total chaos. amazing chaos. the crowds were thick, the smells were intense (mostly delicious, mostly seafood), and the energy was… palpable. i set up near the BIFF Square, hoping for some foot traffic. someone told me that the street performers there are fierce. apparently, there’s a guy who does shadow puppetry with live crickets. i haven’t seen him yet, but i’m on the lookout.
“Don’t busk near the Jagalchi Fish Market after 5pm. Trust me. You’ll smell like fish for a week.” - a very serious ajumma selling kimchi.
that was… helpful. i moved.
food. oh god, the food. i’ve been living on tteokbokki and bibimbap. seriously, find a place that looks busy and just dive in. you won’t regret it. i found this tiny place near Seomyeon Station - it’s not on yelp, but it’s got the best jajangmyeon i’ve ever had. i’m not even kidding. check out TripAdvisor for some other options though: TripAdvisor Busan.
my gear situation is… minimal. harmonica, beatbox, a slightly battered ukulele, and a hat for collecting donations. i’m trying to upgrade, maybe get a small amp, but busking doesn’t exactly pay the bills. i’m also looking for a decent place to stay. hostels are okay, but i’m dreaming of a tiny apartment with a view of the Haeundae Beach. i saw a listing on a local board: Busan Housing Board. (that’s a fake link, obviously, do your research!).
“The old woman who sells flowers near the Busan Cinema Center? She knows everything about the city. Ask her about the best hidden cafes.” - a drunk ajusshi.
so, yeah, i did. she pointed me to this amazing little place called “The Blooming Bean.” seriously, the best latte i’ve had in ages. they also have these incredible little pastries. check out Yelp for reviews: Yelp Busan.
if you get bored, Gyeongju and Ulsan are just a short drive away. i’m thinking of taking a day trip to Gyeongju next week to check out the temples.
my neighbors, the other buskers, are a mixed bag. there’s this incredible guitarist who plays blues covers, and a group of teenagers who do K-pop dance routines. it’s a whole scene. i’m trying to collaborate with the guitarist, maybe do a harmonica/guitar duet.
“Watch out for the pigeons in Toseong Park. They’re ruthless.” - a very weary-looking street artist.
he wasn’t kidding. those pigeons are aggressive*.
overall, busan is… overwhelming. in the best possible way. it’s loud, it’s chaotic, it’s delicious, and it’s full of surprises. i’m definitely going to be here for a while. i’m also trying to learn some korean. it’s… challenging. but i’m getting there. i’m thinking of taking a class: Korean Language Institute. (another fake link, sorry!).
okay, gotta go. the pigeons are staring at me. and i think i hear the cricket shadow puppeteer warming up.
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