Cabanatuan: A Sweaty, Chaotic Love Affair with My Camera

i've been in cabanatuan for three days now and my camera bag feels like it's carrying an extra brick of sweat. this place doesn't play when it comes to heat. the weather app just buzzed: 28.81°C on the dot, but it feels like 30.29 because of the humidity sitting at 57%. that's the kind of heat that makes you question your life choices. my lens cloth is constantly damp.

cabanatuan isn't what i expected. it's a bustling city in nueva ecija, the philippines' rice granary. streets are a kaleidoscope of *jeepney colors, tricycle fumes, and vendors selling everything from adobo to weird mango candies. i'm staying near the palengke (wet market), where the air smells like fish sauce and fresh mangoes. it's overwhelming and intoxicating.

for anyone wondering where exactly i'm camped, here's the map snapshot:

i spent my first morning walking around the city plaza. kids playing tumbang preso, old men dominoes, and the constant hum of handheld radios. i tried to capture the jeepney parade - those repurposed US military jeeps turned into moving canvases. the sunlight is harsh; the heat makes the air humid and wavy, which actually gave my photos a dreamy distortion i didn't hate. but man, it's tough on gear. keep your camera in an airtight bag when not shooting, or condensation will ruin your sensor.

someone told me that the best halo-halo is at a stall called 'aling nelle's' near the cathedral. i went there, and it was decent, but then i overheard a group of retired teachers saying the real secret is the kaong and ube - and that some stalls cut corners with artificial flavors. so, if you're hunting for authentic halo-halo, ask around and follow the lines of locals, not tourists.

i also heard a rumor about a hidden waterfall just outside town, in the sierra madre foothills. it's called tinalon falls, apparently a 30-minute tricycle ride and a short hike. i haven't made it yet because i'm too busy shooting the street life. but if you go, bring a waterproof case for your phone - the trail gets muddy.

regarding food, cabanatuan is known for its pancit and chicharon. there's a spot called 'manong joe's' that some travel bloggers rave about (see this TripAdvisor page). i gave it a try; the pancit was good, not life-changing. maybe i caught them on an off day. also, i've been getting tips from the local photography group on Facebook - they point me to the less-visited barangays where life is more raw.

if you're planning a visit, a few things: bring cash - many small vendors don't take cards. stay hydrated - carry a bottle of water everywhere. and watch your belongings in crowded markets; i heard a story about a tourist having his camera snatched in broad daylight. not trying to scare you, but be aware.

the climate here is intense. the pressure hovers around 1011 hPa, but that's about as interesting as a wet napkin. what matters is the relentless sun. i've taken to shooting early mornings around 5am when the light is soft and the streets are quiet. that's when you see the real cabanatuan: the sari-sari stores opening, the bakery trucks delivering fresh pan de sal, the kalesa? actually, there are no kalesas here, but i saw a horse dragging a cart once - that's vintage filipino transport for you.

overheard at a café: 'cabanatuan used to be a major stop on the manila-nueva ecija railway, but now it's just... busy.' another local said, 'the city's growth exploded because of the cloverleaf interchange.' i'm not sure what they mean, but i love listening to those snippets.

just found three photos that capture the vibe (all from unsplash, but they're close enough):

note: these are generic philippine images, but they give you an idea.

i've also been exploring the food stalls near monumento roundabout. there's a guy grilling inasal (marinated chicken) that makes my mouth water. the smoky smell mixes with the exhaust, weirdly perfect.

one thing that surprised me: the locals are super friendly. i was lost trying to find a barangay hall, and a group of kids offered to guide me, just for the fun of it. i ended up giving them a few candies and they posed for my camera. that's the kind of spontaneous moment i live for.

i've also been reading the local news online (the nueva ecija chronicle). there's talk about a new bike lane along the major highway, which is cool because traffic here is nuts.

if you get bored of the city, the beaches of la union are only a three-hour drive away, or you can head to baguio to cool off in the mountains. both are popular weekend getaways for residents. i'm thinking of doing a day trip soon, provided i don't melt first.

i saw a ghost? wait, no, but there are rumors the old cabanatuan hotel is haunted. i'm not a ghost hunter, but i did peek inside - it's creepy but atmospheric. maybe for another story.

i've linked a few resources that helped me: the official cabanatuan tourism website (it's basic but has event listings), this Yelp list of cheap eats, and a photography forum thread about the best sunset spots. also, check the TripAdvisor page for latest reviews of attractions.

i should mention the sea level pressure thing - weather geek stuff - but it's not relevant to my travel. just that the atmospheric pressure is steady around 1011 hPa. okay.

if you're into street photography, cabanatuan is a goldmine. the light is strong but dramatic; the streets are full of life; the people are expressive. i've been using a 35mm prime and a small mirrorless body so i don't draw attention. i also carry a polarizing filter to cut through the haze.

some days i feel like i'm drowning in the humidity, but then i get a shot of a kid laughing while eating ice candy and it's all worth it. that's the messy, human side of travel.

anyway, i need to go find more sari-sari stores to photograph. the owner of one store just told me a story about how she started with a small shelf and now runs the whole corner. that's the kind of hustle i admire.

till next time, keep your lens clean and your water bottle full.

- some other related link: Wikipedia page for Cabanatuan

p.s. if you have recommendations for street food* i shouldn't miss, slide into my DMs.

Cabanatuan: A Sweaty, Chaotic Love Affair with My Camera

You might also be interested in:

About the author: Sophia Berg

Comments (0)

Join the conversation

Comments (0)

Join the conversation