chasing the gray light: a freelance photographer's tale from koror

okay, so i'm in koror, palau, and it's drizzling. not a heavy rain, but that fine mist that makes everything glisten and, honestly, messes with my exposure. i just checked the weather app on my phone-which is waterlogged, by the way-and it's 13.15 degrees c, feels like 12.06, with humidity at 59%. perfect for developing mold on my lenses, i swear. i packed my camera bag with silica gel packets for a reason, and they're already saturated. i'm a freelance photographer, which means i chase light like a junkie. and here, the light is elusive, capricious. today, i trekked to the ngardmau waterfalls, but the clouds were thick, like a wool blanket. i managed to get some shots of the foliage, all emerald green under the overcast sky, but the waterfalls were powerful yet lacking sparkle. no rainbows, just gray water crashing down. bummer for my portfolio, but great for texture studies. but then, later, as i was waiting for the bus at the malakal dock-a place where time stands still-the sky broke for a second. a sliver of sun pierced through the clouds, and for five minutes, the harbor exploded with gold and orange. i shot like crazy, changed lenses on the fly, got some keeper shots of the fishermen mending nets, their faces weathered and wise. that's the gig: patience, then chaos. you never know when the light will hit, so you have to be ready, always. if you're planning to come, bring a rain cover for your camera. and maybe a towel. the humidity here is no joke; it's like breathing water. i heard from a local at the internet cafe that the best time for photography is early morning, before the trade winds pick up and bring more clouds. but i'm not a morning person, so i suffer in the afternoon glare, squinting at my lcd screen, hoping for the best. neighbors? if you get bored, the caroline islands are a short prop plane ride away. i've heard tales of incredible wreck diving in chuuk lagoon, but i'm saving that for another trip when i have more time and less gear. for now, i'm exploring koror's back streets, the ones not on the tourist maps. the old japanese hospital ruins from world war ii are eerie and photogenic, but be careful-some parts are unstable, and the locals say it's haunted. ghost hunters would have a field day here. reviews and gossip: someone told me that the restaurant 'red也是在' is overrated and touristy, but i had the best tuna poke there, fresh from the ocean, with a spicy kick. go figure. also, i heard from a drunk guy at the bar that the night market is only good on weekends, but i went on a wednesday and it was hopping with locals eating grilled fish and drinking coconut water. so, take rumors with a grain of salt, or maybe a whole shaker. i've been using tripadvisor to find decent guesthouses, but yelp is hit or miss here-not many reviews. there's this great local forum on cyberscout where photographers share hidden spots. i found a secret beach from there-no tourists, just me and my camera, and a few crabs. absolute bliss. let me show you some shots from today. first, the misty harbor, where i caught that golden moment:

then, the ngardmau waterfalls in all their gray glory:

and a portrait of a local fisherman i met at the dock, his hands tell a story:

here's a map of where i've been wandering, according to my gps:

overall, koror is a messy, beautiful place. the weather is unpredictable, the people are friendly despite my broken palauan, and the light? when it comes, it's magic. just be prepared for rain, humidity, and the occasional power outage-yes, that happened yesterday, and i lost half my shots from the day before. but that's the story, right? the imperfections make it real. i also tried the local dish 'palauan chuau' at a tiny shack. it's taro with coconut cream, and it was... interesting. not my favorite, but i appreciate the authenticity. the lady running the place laughed at my attempt to eat it with chopsticks. cultural fail, but good for a story. if you have questions, hit me up on instagram or check out my blog for more behind-the-scenes chaos. and if you're a photographer, bring a backup drive. always. for updated info on attractions, check the palau visitors bureau or the lonely planet forum where travelers share recent experiences. i also rely on tripadvisor for accomodation tips and yelp for food, though it's sparse here.

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