Chiang Mai & The Humidity That Tried To Kill Me (But Didn't)
okay, so chiang mai. it’s…a lot. i landed a few days ago, completely fried from a red-eye from bangkok, and honestly, haven’t really recovered. i’m a freelance photographer, and i was chasing this light - this specific golden hour glow everyone raves about - and i think i found it, but it nearly cost me all my fluids.
apparently, the weather’s been a bit…intense. i just checked and it’s hovering around twenty-seven degrees celsius, but it feels like you’re walking into a sauna. the humidity is a ridiculous twelve percent, which, according to my phone, is basically desert-like, but somehow still manages to cling to you like a second skin. the pressure’s steady at 1008, which i guess is good? i don’t know, i’m a photographer, not a meteorologist.
finding decent *coffee has been a mission. i’m a bit of a snob, okay? i need my fix. i stumbled upon this tiny place near the night bazaar - Ristr8to, apparently - and it was…acceptable. not third-wave pour-over acceptable, but acceptable. someone told me that the coffee at Graph Cafe is amazing, but it’s always packed with tourists. i’m trying to avoid those as much as possible. you can find more reviews on Yelp.
my accommodation is…interesting. it’s a guesthouse run by this woman named aunty mai, who speaks approximately three words of english, but communicates entirely through gestures and pointed stares. she keeps offering me mango sticky rice, which is lovely, but i’m pretty sure she’s judging my life choices. if you get restless, pai is just a few hours away, and people say it's a bit more laid-back.
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i overheard some backpackers at a street food stall saying that the sunday walking street is a total tourist trap, but you have to go just to experience the chaos. apparently, it’s shoulder-to-shoulder people, and you’ll get pickpocketed if you’re not careful.
i spent yesterday wandering around the old city, trying to capture some of the temples. they’re stunning, obviously, but also…overrun. it’s hard to get a clean shot without a selfie stick in the foreground. i’m thinking of heading up to doi suthep tomorrow, hoping for a bit more peace and quiet. i read on TripAdvisor that you can take a songthaew up there for pretty cheap.
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a drunk guy at a bar warned me about the ladyboys offering massages. he said they’re “very persuasive” and you’ll end up paying way too much. i’m not sure how true that is, but it was a memorable piece of advice.
i’m trying to find some good local markets that aren’t completely geared towards tourists. i found this forum (Chiang Mai Expats) that seems promising. someone mentioned the Warorot Market (Kad Luang) as a good place to start. i’m also hoping to find some vintage clothing* shops. i’m always on the lookout for a good bargain.
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i heard a rumor that there’s a secret speakeasy hidden somewhere in the old city, but nobody knows where it is. apparently, you have to know the password, and the password changes every week.
honestly, chiang mai is exhausting. but it’s also…magical? i don’t know. i need more coffee. and maybe a fan. and definitely a longer vacation. check out Lonely Planet for more info.
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