Commute Times in Cartagena: How Long Will You Spend in Traffic (and Why You Might Not Care)
okay, so, like, Cartagena. it’s… intense. i just got back, and honestly, my brain feels like a scrambled egg. i’m pretty sure i left half my sanity somewhere between the walled city and a ridiculously strong aguardiente. but, you know, worth it. mostly. i was talking to a guy at the bar last night - he’s a session drummer, apparently, named Silas - and he was going on about the traffic. it’s a whole thing. a serious thing.
he said, and i quote, ‘it’s not just traffic, man. it’s a performance. everyone’s trying to get somewhere, and nobody’s letting anyone else. it’s like a really slow, frustrating salsa.’ and honestly, that’s pretty accurate. i spent a solid three hours one day just trying to get from Bocagrande to El Laguito. three. hours.
I’ve been digging around, trying to get a handle on this. apparently, the worst times are between 6 am and 9 am, and then again between 5 pm and 8 pm. it’s basically a two-part commute apocalypse. the main arteries - the Vereda Cartagena - are a nightmare. they’re constantly under construction, which just adds another layer of chaos. i found this Reddit thread (https://www.reddit.com/r/Cartagena/comments/13j247k/cartagena_traffic_tips_and_strategies/) that’s basically a collective groan of despair, but it did suggest taking the ferry across the bay if you’re going to Playa Blanca. seriously, do it. it’s a lifesaver.
Speaking of lifesavers, let’s talk about cost of living. it’s… manageable, i guess. I’m seeing rentals in the walled city starting around $800 a month for a studio - but that’s optimistic. closer to the beach, you’re looking at $1200-$1800. food? street food is cheap - like, ridiculously cheap. you can get a full meal for under $10. but a decent cocktail? let’s just say your wallet will weep.
Here’s a quick breakdown (rough estimates, obviously - everything’s negotiable in Cartagena):
| Expense | Estimated Monthly Cost |
|---|---|
| Rent (Studio) | $800 - $1800 |
| Groceries | $300 - $500 |
| Transportation | $100 - $300 |
| Entertainment | $200 - $400 |
| Utilities | $80 - $150 |
| *Total | $1580 - $3150 |
Silas also told me, and this is a drunk advice nugget, to “always, always, always* negotiate the taxi fare before you get in. they’ll try to rip you off, man. it’s a fact.” i tried it, and he was right. it’s like a game.
And the weather? it’s… humid. like, aggressively humid. it’s basically a warm, wet blanket draped over everything. it’s like a perpetual summer, but with a slightly salty tang in the air. you’re about a two-hour flight from Medellín - which is, you know, completely different. like, mountains and coffee. and a lot less traffic, thankfully. and a short flight from San Andres, which is basically a Caribbean paradise. it’s a whole ecosystem of weather and vibes.
I overheard a local telling a tourist that the best way to deal with the traffic is to “just accept it. embrace the chaos. and maybe invest in a really good book.” i’m leaning towards the book. seriously, check out this TripAdvisor review (https://www.tripadvisor.com/Travel-Guide-Cartagena.html) - it’s surprisingly bleak, but honest. and this Yelp page (https://www.yelp.com/directory/restaurants/cartagena-colombia) has some decent restaurant recommendations (avoid the places right on the main square - they’re overpriced and mediocre).
Honestly, after a while, the traffic started to… fade into the background. it became just another part of the experience. like, you’re in Cartagena, you’re going to deal with it. you might as well grab a mango smoothie and enjoy the view. it’s a weird, beautiful, frustrating place. and i wouldn’t trade it. (probably.)
And one last thing: don’t trust anyone who says the traffic isn’t bad. they’re lying. or they’ve clearly never tried to get to Bocagrande on a Sunday afternoon.
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