Córdoba, Argentina: Dust, Empanadas, and a Whole Lotta Siesta

okay, so. córdoba. i didn’t really plan to come here, you know? it was one of those things where i was bouncing around argentina, chasing a rumor about a really good tango school in rosario, and my bus broke down. like, really broke down. somewhere outside of córdoba. ended up spending three days here while they sorted it all out. and honestly? i’m kinda glad it did.

it’s… dusty. like, really dusty. i just checked and it’s hovering around 28.49 degrees celsius right now, feels like 28.62. the humidity is surprisingly low, only 46%. perfect siesta weather, honestly. i spent a good chunk of my time just… existing. finding shady spots, drinking mate (which i still haven’t quite mastered - it’s a whole thing), and watching the world go by.

there’s this plaza, the *Plaza San Martín, that’s just… buzzing. always something happening. street performers, families, old men playing chess. i overheard someone - looked like a retired professor, judging by the tweed jacket - saying that the plaza used to be a racetrack. can you imagine? horses and carriages where people are now sipping coffee and arguing about football? wild.

“Don’t eat at that parrilla on Belgrano. Trust me. The chorizo will haunt your dreams.”

seriously, take that advice. i almost didn’t, but i figured, hey, when in Argentina, right? wrong. so, so wrong. i’m still recovering. check out some other options on Yelp: https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=restaurants&find_loc=Córdoba,+Argentina.

and the empanadas. oh, the empanadas. those were a lifesaver. i found this tiny little place, La Empanadería, tucked away on a side street. the woman who runs it, rosa, barely speaks english, but she makes the best empanadas i’ve ever had. beef, chicken, ham and cheese… i tried them all. seriously, go. now. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g319936-d12345678-Reviews-La_Empanaderia-Cordoba_Province_of_Cordoba.html

if you get bored, La Rioja and Santa Fe are just a short drive away. i didn’t make it to either, but i heard they’re both worth a visit.

“The university students? They’re always protesting something. Just… be aware of your surroundings.”

that’s true. the National University of Córdoba is a huge deal here, and the students are… passionate. i saw a protest about something or other - honestly, i didn’t understand a word they were saying - but it was definitely lively.

gear-wise, i’m running pretty light these days. mostly just my trusty backpack, a good pair of walking shoes (essential for navigating the cobblestone streets), and a reusable water bottle. oh, and a hat. the sun is relentless.

backpack: osprey talon 22 (still going strong after all these years)
shoes: salomon x ultra 4 (worth every penny)
water bottle: hydro flask (keeps my water cold, even in this heat)
* hat: any old baseball cap will do

and a quick pro-tip: learn a few basic spanish phrases. it’ll go a long way. even just “hola” and “gracias” will get you smiles. check out this handy guide: https://www.spanishdict.com/

“Don’t trust anyone who offers you a ‘special deal’ on leather goods. It’s probably fake.”

seriously. i almost fell for that one. i’m not saying everyone is trying to rip you off, but… be careful.

overall? córdoba wasn’t on my radar, but i’m glad i ended up there. it’s got a laid-back vibe, delicious food, and a surprising amount of history. it’s not flashy or glamorous, but it’s… real. and sometimes, that’s exactly what you need. i’m off to find another empanada. wish me luck.