Córdoba Etiquette: How Not to Look Like a Total Turista (From a Broke Student's POV)
look, i've been here three months scraping by on instant milanesas and i've already pissed off a vecina,所以在 let's get into the nitty-gritty of not being that gringo. first off, the weather here isn't 'sun-drenched' or whatever travel blogs say-it's like someone left a space heater on full blast in a humid closet. may to september is actually chilly at night, which nobody warns you about. you'll see tourists in shorts shivering at midnight. pack a hoodie. the andes? yeah they're stunning, but they're also a 4-hour bus ride from here. buenos aires is a 2-hour flight and feels like a different planet-one with better clubs but worse empanadas. fight me.
tripadvisor's got the usual glossy crap, but the real talk is on r/argentina's old threads. dig through the downvoted comments. that's where the gold is.
*rent and survival: i pay 40k ars for a dusty room in nueva cordoba. it's a ripoff but close to the univ. average studio is 60-80k ars if you want something that isn't held together by hope. job market for english speakers? tutoring at 3000 ars/hour if you're lucky, or teaching online from a cafe with terrible wifi. safety: don't flash phones in centro after 8pm. i got followed from plaza san martín once. just keep your head down, it's not mexican city-level bad but it's not helsinki either.
okay, the actual 'don't be a dick' list, delivered with zero grace:
- mate is not tea. it's a social ritual. if someone offers you mate (the gourd, the metal straw), you drink the whole thing and hand it back without saying thanks. saying 'gracias' kills the cycle. if you're full, just say 'gracias, completo' and pass it back. refusing outright is like slapping their abuela.
- tipping at fondas and casual spots? 10% if you got good service. at a pizzeria? round up. never leave coins on the table-they'll think you're being cheeky.
- don't call everyone 'che' like a bad hollywood movie. use 'vos' not 'tú' in spanish, and for god's sake don't use 'ustedeo' unless the person is 80+. it's weirdly formal here.
- the jesuit block (manzana jesuítica) isn't just a photo op. it's a unesco site that's also a working school. keep your voice down. i saw a tour group shouting about 'ancient artifacts' during class change. the guard looked ready to fight.
the food landmines: choripán is street food, not a gourmet experience. don't ask for ketchup. ever. the best fiambres (cold cuts) are from the old-school delis in Alberdi. yelp's listings are hit-or-miss because many gems don't have websites. follow the crowds at 2am.
"el que no salta es inglés" - the 'if you don't jump you're english' thing at soccer matches? it's basically a mandatory chant. don't just stand there. also, if river or boca scores, expect full brawls. not kidding.
the vibe with strangers: cordobeses are more chill than porteños but they still think we're all 'yanquis' (even if you're canadian, mexican, whatever). if someone asks '¿de dónde sos?' just say your country, not 'america'. they'll roll their eyes. small talk about football is fine, politics is a minefield even for locals. avoid it for first three meetings.
my landlord's wife whispered to me: 'nunca digas que extrañas starbucks. aquí tomamos café de verdad.' which is fair, the café con leche here is liquid gold and costs 300 ars. bring your own cup to some places and they'll give you a discount. not all, but some.
last thing: the siesta thing is real. 2pm to 5pm? centro is a ghost town. plan around it or just join the nap culture. you'll fit in better if you're not the only sweaty mess scurrying around looking for open doors.
oh, and if someone offers you fernet and coke? it's a trap. it tastes like black licorice cough syrup and you will wake up confused on a park bench. but it's also the local drink. so... your call.
'cuidado con el colectivo 28,' a taxi driver told me. 'it goes everywhere but the drivers are maniacos.' he's not wrong. the bus system is labyrinthine. use the 'cuando' app. it's saved my life.
anyway, i gotta go sell some textbooks. hope this mess helps. don't be that guy taking selfies in a cathedral during mass. seriously.
map of where not to get lost:
ps: the best heladerías* (ice cream shops) are the old italian ones, not the chains. you're welcome.
You might also be interested in:
- https://topiclo.com/post/moco-angola-a-diy-buskers-messy-week
- https://topiclo.com/post/kitakysh-vs-tokyo-which-one-actually-feels-like-home-3
- https://topiclo.com/post/10-things-you-must-know-before-moving-to-so-paulo-no-fluff-just-real-talk-from-a-photographer
- https://topiclo.com/post/sheffield-weather-a-drummers-guide-to-surviving-moodswing-skies-cheap-beer
- https://topiclo.com/post/porto-alegre-smells-like-smoke-and-feels-like-a-humid-hug