Crete's North Coast: A Botanist's Dizzying, Damp Dream (and a Few Goat Encounters)
okay, so. crete. i’d heard whispers, you know? Like, everyone raves about the south, the beaches, the fancy resorts. but i’m a botanist. i chase weird plants. and the north coast? apparently, it’s where the real magic happens.
I just checked and it’s… a persistent drizzle right now. The kind that soaks you to the bone without you really noticing. Feels like 9.59 degrees, which is… brisk, to say the least. Humidity’s punching in at 84%, so basically, you’re living in a greenhouse. I’m not complaining. It’s perfect for the flora.
I based myself near *Agios Nikolaos, which was… charming. In a slightly sleepy, “grandma’s antique shop” kind of way. The lake is pretty, I guess, if you’re into that. I was mostly interested in the hills surrounding it. Seriously, the hills. They’re covered in stuff. Wild thyme, caper bushes clinging to the rocks, orchids I haven’t even identified yet. I spent a solid three hours just staring at a single patch of Euphorbia. It was glorious.
Someone told me that the tavernas around here are all tourist traps. Said the food isn’t authentic anymore. I don’t know, I had some amazing grilled octopus at a place called “Captain’s Catch” - check it out on Yelp https://www.yelp.com/biz/captains-catch-agios-nikolaos. It was simple, fresh, and ridiculously cheap. Plus, the owner kept trying to set me up with his niece. That’s a win in my book.
I did a day trip to Elounda, which is… fancier. Like, really fancy. Yachts the size of small apartment buildings, designer boutiques, the whole shebang. It felt a bit… sterile, honestly. I much preferred the ruggedness of the smaller villages. I overheard a couple complaining about the lack of “authentic Greek experience.” Honestly, they were probably looking for something that doesn’t exist anymore. You can find some good reviews on TripAdvisor https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g1046353-Elounda_Lasithi_Prefecture_Crete-Vacations.html.
My gear list, because apparently, I need to be organized sometimes:
*Hiking boots: Essential. The terrain is uneven, rocky, and occasionally involves scrambling over goat paths.
*Waterproof jacket: Seriously, don’t leave home without it. The drizzle is relentless.
*Field notebook and pencil: For documenting all the amazing plants I find. (And sketching the goats. They’re surprisingly photogenic.)
*Magnifying glass: Gotta get a good look at those tiny details.
*Camera: Obviously. For the plants, the goats, the scenery… everything.
*Snacks: Because foraging takes energy.
I also stumbled upon a local forum https://crete-gazette.com/ where people were arguing about the best place to buy honey. Apparently, there’s a serious honey rivalry going on. Who knew?
If you get bored, Rethymno and Chania* are just a short drive away. They’re bigger cities, with more to see and do. But honestly? I’m happy just wandering around the hills, getting rained on, and discovering new plants. It’s… peaceful. And damp. Very, very damp.
I heard that the locals are fiercely protective of their traditions. Something about not wanting to lose their identity to tourism. I didn’t really experience that, but it’s something to be aware of, I guess. Be respectful, learn a few basic Greek phrases, and don’t be a jerk. That’s generally good advice anywhere, right?
Honestly, if you’re looking for pristine beaches and all-inclusive resorts, this isn’t the place for you. But if you’re a nature lover, a plant geek, or just someone who appreciates a bit of rugged beauty, the north coast of Crete might just blow your mind. Just pack a raincoat.