Dakar, Senegal: Dust, Drums, and a Whole Lotta Vibes (Seriously)
okay, so dakar. where do i even begin? i’m elara, by the way, and i’m a touring session drummer - which means i spend most of my life crammed in vans, chasing gigs, and occasionally stumbling into places that completely rearrange my brain. dakar did that. it rearranged my brain.
let’s just say the numbers 2240444 and 1024196826… they’re swirling around in my head like the dust devils i saw kicking up near *Île de Gorée. i don’t know what they mean, but they feel…dakar. chaotic, layered, full of secrets.
right now, i just checked and it’s a humid 30.77°c, feels like 34.85°c. the pressure’s at 1013, and the humidity is clinging to everything like a second skin. you’ll sweat. a lot. but honestly? it’s part of the charm. i’m not gonna lie, the heat hit me like a wall when i stepped off the plane.
my first few days were a blur of vibrant colors, the constant thrum of drums (obviously), and the scent of spices i couldn’t even name. i stayed in a little guesthouse near Plateau, which was…interesting. the neighbors? if you’re craving a change of scenery, Mbour and Thiès are both within a reasonable drive. i spent an afternoon wandering around the Marché Kermel, which is an assault on the senses in the best possible way. seriously, go. haggle. get lost. you won’t regret it. check out TripAdvisor for some tips - https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g323323-Activities-Dakar_Dakar_Region.html.
food. oh, the food. i ate so much thieboudienne. it’s basically the national dish, and for good reason. it’s rice, fish, vegetables, and a sauce that will haunt your dreams. i also tried some street food - grilled skewers, spicy peanut soup… my stomach is still recovering. someone told me that the best thieboudienne is found in a tiny, unmarked restaurant in Medina. apparently, you have to ask around. i didn’t find it, but the quest is part of the adventure, right?
“Don’t trust the taxis near the airport. They’ll try to rip you off. Walk a block or two and hail one from the street.”
that was drunk advice from a guy i met at a bar in Yoff. he seemed to know what he was talking about. i definitely got overcharged on my first taxi ride. learn from my mistakes, people.
and the music! everywhere you go, there’s music. drumming, singing, dancing… it’s infectious. i even managed to jam with a local band one night. it was chaotic, beautiful, and utterly unforgettable. i’m already planning my return trip. i’m thinking of checking out some of the local art galleries - https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=art+gallery&find_loc=Dakar%2C+Senegal.
I heard that the beaches south of Dakar are much less crowded than those closer to the city. Apparently, Saly* is the place to go if you want to escape the hustle and bustle. Also, a local warned me about pickpockets in the markets - keep your belongings close!
okay, i’m rambling now. dakar is…a lot. it’s challenging, it’s overwhelming, it’s beautiful, it’s frustrating, it’s inspiring. it’s a place that gets under your skin and stays there. go. just…go. and be prepared to be changed.
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