damascus: it’s… complicated
okay, so i’m back. mostly. and honestly, i’m still processing. damascus. it’s… a lot. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. it’s not like those perfectly curated travel brochures, you know? it’s gritty, it’s ancient, it’s hot, and it’s somehow both utterly overwhelming and strangely comforting. i’m not even sure where to start.
seriously, look at that map. it’s just… perched. on a plateau, like it doesn’t quite belong anywhere. it’s 680-690 meters up, which is a lot if you’re not used to it. and the Barada River? it’s the lifeline, really. this oasis thing is actually real, and it’s kind of magical, even if it’s also battling against a desert. someone told me that the al-Ghutah oasis is shrinking because of all the new building, which is… depressing, honestly.
history, ugh. it’s everywhere. like, everywhere. they’re saying it’s one of the oldest cities still inhabited, which is wild. pagan, jewish, christian, islamic - it’s all layered on top of each other. it’s like walking through a museum, but you’re also dodging scooters and trying not to get lost in the souks. it’s chaotic, but in a beautiful way, i guess? i mean, it’s been a trade hub for, like, millennia. it’s impressive.
and the weather! don’t even get me started. it’s supposed to be temperate arid, but it’s basically a furnace in the summer. i’m talking 36.5-46°C highs. i’m pretty sure my internal organs are still adjusting. and the winters? mild to cold, with lows dipping to 0.4°C. i packed for a monsoon, and i’m pretty sure i brought a parka. it’s a mess.
neighboring cities? well, there’s Beirut to the west, which is a surprisingly short drive (85km, apparently). and the Golan Heights to the southwest. if you get bored, those are just a short drive away. aleppo is up north, but it’s separated by… well, a lot of desert and steppe. it’s a long story.
okay, tourist stuff. the old city is the big draw, obviously. it’s a maze of narrow streets and ancient buildings. and mount qasioun? the views are decent, if you can handle the heat. government buildings are clustered west of the center, and newer residential areas are on the northern river bank. it’s a weird mix of old and new.
and the food? i didn’t really find anything amazing. someone told me that kunafa is a must-try, but i was too busy sweating to really investigate. honestly, i just grabbed some falafel and a juice. it was fine.
seriously, the civil war is still a thing. it’s… unsettling. safety is a concern, and access to certain areas is limited. it’s not a place you’d want to be traveling alone, definitely. and the heat and the rain (or lack thereof) are a constant struggle. it’s a tough city, but it’s also resilient. it just… is. it’s a complicated place, and i’m still trying to figure it out.
honestly, i’m going to go lie down. i think i need a very, very long nap.
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