Dehradun: Dust, Chai, and a Whole Lot of 'Maybe'

okay, so dehradun. it’s…a thing. i wasn’t exactly planning on ending up here, honestly. it was supposed to be *rishikesh, all yoga and enlightenment, but my train got delayed (like, really delayed) and i ended up with a whole day to kill. and honestly? i’m kinda glad.

first impressions? it smells like woodsmoke and something sweet, maybe jasmine? the air is…thick. i just checked and it’s hovering around seventeen degrees, but it feels like someone’s gently pressing a warm, damp cloth on your face. not unpleasant, just…present. the humidity is definitely a thing, clocking in at around forty-two percent. makes your hair do weird stuff.

i’ve been wandering around, mostly getting lost in the bazaars. they’re insane. a total sensory overload. i swear i saw a guy selling live chickens next to a stall overflowing with brightly colored bangles. it’s…a lot. i overheard someone saying that the best place for street food is near the clock tower, but also that you need a very strong stomach. apparently, it’s a gamble. i’m leaning towards the gamble, tbh.

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i heard from a fellow traveler that the local buses are an experience. "like, a real experience," she said, with a haunted look in her eyes. "hold on tight and pray."

i’ve been trying to find decent coffee, which, as a self-proclaimed coffee snob, is always a struggle. so far, no luck. mostly just sugary, milky concoctions that vaguely resemble coffee. i’m starting to think i need to bring my own beans next time. seriously considering it. i did find a little tea shop though, tucked away down a side street. the chai was incredible. strong, spicy, and served in a tiny clay cup. that’s more my speed. you can find some reviews on Yelp.

the people here are…interesting. very friendly, but also very direct. no beating around the bush. i asked someone for directions and they just grabbed my arm and started walking me there. it was a little startling, but also kind of nice. if you get bored, mussoorie and nainital are just a short, bumpy ride away.

i’ve been sketching in my notebook, trying to capture the chaos. the light here is amazing, all hazy and golden. it’s perfect for drawing. i’m thinking of doing a series of watercolors inspired by the bazaars. i’m also trying to learn a few phrases in hindi, but it’s slow going. my pronunciation is terrible.

someone warned me about the monkeys. apparently, they’re notorious for stealing food and sunglasses. i haven’t encountered any yet, but i’m keeping a close eye out. i read on TripAdvisor that they’re particularly active around the temples.

i’m staying in a tiny guesthouse run by a lovely old woman named mrs. sharma. she keeps offering me biscuits and chai, and she doesn’t speak a word of english. we communicate through gestures and smiles. it’s surprisingly effective. you can find some guesthouses on Booking.com.

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i overheard a couple arguing about the best place to buy pashminas. "it's definitely the shop on rajpur road!" she insisted. "no way," he retorted, "it's the one near the railway station!" it was a very passionate debate.

i’m not sure what tomorrow will bring. maybe i’ll finally make it to rishikesh. maybe i’ll just wander around dehradun some more. honestly, i’m okay with either. it’s a place that kind of…just is*. and sometimes, that’s enough. i've also been looking at local events on Eventbrite.