Dhaka Diaries: Lost in the Numbers and the Humidity
okay, so. dhaka. 1185755 and 1050831924. those are the numbers that kept swirling in my head the whole time i was there. i don’t even know what they mean, honestly. some local guy scribbled them on a napkin after i asked him about the best biryani (more on that later). they felt…significant. like a secret code to the city. maybe i’m losing it.
i’m a touring session drummer, so i’m used to chaos. but dhaka…dhaka is a whole other level. it’s like someone took every single sound, smell, and color imaginable and just threw it all into a blender. and then turned the blender on high. i just checked and it's hovering around 17.05°c, feels like 16.14°c. there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. the humidity is a beast, though. seriously, you walk outside and instantly feel like you’re swimming in warm soup.
my main mission? find the best biryani. i’m serious. i’ve eaten biryani all over the world, and i’m on a quest. i spent a solid three days just wandering around *old dhaka, dodging rickshaws and trying to decipher menus. it’s…an experience.
“Don’t eat at the place with the blue awning,” a guy slurring his words told me outside a tea stall. “Trust me. You’ll regret it.”
so, naturally, i went there the next day. it wasn’t terrible. just…forgettable.
getting around is…interesting. i tried the bus once. once. it was like being packed into a sardine can with a hundred other people and a goat. i quickly switched to rickshaws. they’re everywhere. and the drivers are surprisingly good at navigating the insane traffic. i even managed to haggle a ride for like, 50 takas. felt pretty smug about that. check out some rickshaw reviews here: TripAdvisor Dhaka Rickshaws
if you get bored, gazipur and narayanganj are just a short drive away. i didn’t make it out there, but i heard they’re good for…something. i honestly can’t remember what. my brain is still recovering from the sensory overload.
“The pigeons here are plotting something,” a woman muttered to herself as she scattered seeds in shahbagh. “Mark my words.”
okay, back to the biryani. i did find a contender. a tiny little place tucked away in a side street. no name, just a guy grilling meat over charcoal. the rice was fluffy, the meat was tender, and the spices were…perfect. i’m not even kidding. it was life-changing. i’m going to try and recreate it when i get back home. wish me luck. you can find some local food recommendations on Yelp Dhaka - though, honestly, the best places are the ones you stumble upon.
pro-tip: learn a few basic bengali phrases. it goes a long way. “shubho dibos” (happy day) is always a good start. and be prepared to bargain. everything is negotiable.
gear list:
noise-canceling headphones (essential)
lightweight, breathable clothing (seriously, the humidity)
hand sanitizer (you’ll need it)
a good map (google maps is okay, but sometimes unreliable)
a sense of adventure (and a strong stomach)
*another overheard rumor: someone told me that the national museum* is surprisingly good. i didn’t have time to go, but i’ll add it to the list for next time. i’m already planning a return trip. i need to figure out what those numbers mean. and find more amazing biryani.
check out this local forum for more dhaka insights: Dhaka Community Board
and finally, a word of warning: don’t trust anyone who offers you a “special deal” on a carpet. just…don’t. you’ve been warned.
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