Dhaka Diaries: Where the Chaos is the Charm (and the Humidity is Real)
okay, so dhaka. where do i even begin? i’m elara, by the way, and i’m a botanist. usually, i’m knee-deep in ferns and moss, not dodging rickshaws, but hey, fieldwork is fieldwork, right? i’m here studying some incredibly resilient native grasses - seriously, these things are tough - and honestly, the whole city feels like it’s made of the same stuff. adaptable, chaotic, and surprisingly beautiful in its own way.
i just checked and it’s…a sort of shimmering haze out there right now. the air is thick, you know? like trying to breathe through a damp towel. the temperature’s hovering around eighteen point nine, feels like seventeen point six, which is…pleasant, i guess, if you’re a lizard. the humidity is a solid thirty-two percent, which basically means everything is perpetually slightly sticky. i’m not complaining, though. it’s part of the experience.
getting around is…an adventure. i’ve mostly been relying on rickshaws - they’re everywhere, and the drivers are surprisingly good at navigating the madness. i tried a CNG (auto-rickshaw) once. once. let’s just say i’m still processing that experience. i’d recommend checking out some local transport options on TripAdvisor before you go; you’ll want to be prepared. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g293862-Activities-Dhaka.html
food. oh, the food. i’ve been mostly sticking to street food - it’s incredible. biryani, kebabs, samosas…i’m in heaven. someone told me that the best biryani is at a place called Fakir Ali’s. apparently, there’s always a line, but it’s worth it. i haven’t made it there yet, but it’s high on my list. i’ve also been trying to learn a bit of bengali so i can order properly. it’s…challenging. i mostly just point and smile.
“Apparently, if you ask for ‘masala’ on anything, you’ll get a fiery explosion in your mouth. A drunk guy at a tea stall told me that. He seemed very serious about it.”
my neighbors? well, if you get bored, Narayanganj and Gazipur are just a short drive away. they’re both industrial cities, but offer a different perspective on bangladesh. i’ve been spending most of my time in old dhaka, though. it’s a maze of narrow streets, bustling markets, and ancient buildings. it’s overwhelming, but in the best possible way. i found a really cool vintage shop tucked away in one of the alleys - it’s called ‘Rokon’s Treasures’ - and they have some amazing textiles. https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=vintage+clothing&find_loc=Dhaka,+Bangladesh
“Don’t even think about haggling too aggressively. They’ll know you’re a tourist and they’ll raise the price even higher. Just smile, be polite, and offer a reasonable amount.”
getting wifi here is…spotty. i’ve been relying on mobile data, which is surprisingly affordable. i’ve also found a few cafes with decent wifi - ‘Starbucks’ is a safe bet, but there are also some great local cafes that are worth checking out. i found a board on a local forum with recommendations for cafes with good wifi. https://www.dhakatalks.com/
“The traffic is insane. Seriously. Just accept it. Don’t fight it. Embrace the chaos.”
overall, dhaka is…an experience. it’s not for the faint of heart, but if you’re willing to embrace the chaos, you’ll be rewarded with a vibrant culture, incredible food, and some truly unforgettable memories. i’m still here for a few more weeks, studying those grasses and soaking it all in. i’ll try to update again soon, assuming i can find a stable wifi connection and escape the rickshaw swarm. check out some more travel blogs for inspiration too! https://www.lonelyplanet.com/bangladesh/dhaka