drum circles and empanadas: a drummer's take on buenos aires
so i'm here in this city that never sleeps, but somehow my eyelids do. got off the bus with my sticks in one hand and a greasy pastry in the other, immediately sweating through my t-shirt despite the 'cool' 19°C everyone keeps mentioning. humidity's got me feeling like my drumheads are gonna warp any minute now.
honestly, the pressure's 1016 hpa which is basically telling me this city's vibe is either gonna crush you or lift you-no in-between. found this *local bar last night where the drummer was using oil drums as percussion. legit.
i just checked and it's... holding steady at 19°C, hope you like that kind of thing. feels like 19.18 apparently, which is just enough to make you question why you brought a jacket. humidity's at 78% so every cymbal wipe feels like wringing out a sponge.
some guy at a coffee stall told me la boca is where you'll find the real street musicians. 'don't pay the tango dancers upfront,' he slurred, 'they'll dance you into next week.' then he winked and offered me more mate.
if the city gets too loud, montevideo is just a boat ride away for some quiet. but honestly? with all these impromptu drum circles popping up in parks at midnight, why would you leave? i heard that the sunday market in san telmo has this guy who plays the spoons like they're electric guitars.
'tourists think they know tango until they see the locals move. then they realize they just know how to trip over their own feet.'
packing tip: bring extra drum keys. the humidity here? man, my snare tension changes hourly. tried tuning it this morning and it sounded like a dying cat by noon. also, pro tip: mate tea* is basically rocket fuel for 4am jam sessions.
checked out this spot called el clandestino last night-walls literally sweating but the beats were worth it. someone told me the bouncer used to be a touring drummer for some argentine rock legend. makes sense why he caught my dropped stick before it hit the floor.
'never trust a milonga that doesn't have at least three drummers. real rhythm needs multiple angles.'
the temperature's been stuck between 18 and 20°C all week, which is basically nature's way of saying 'chill the hell out.' but honestly? with this city's heartbeat in 4/4 time, who's complaining? just wish i'd brought more earplugs.
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