Dumaguete, Philippines: Humidity, Halo-Halo, and Questionable Karaoke
okay, so. dumaguete. i’m still peeling. i just checked and it’s…a damp hug out there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. seriously, 83% humidity? my hair is staging a rebellion. i’m a freelance photographer, and let me tell you, trying to get crisp shots of *cathedrals and markets when you’re battling a personal raincloud is…challenging.
I was scouting locations for a potential short film - indie stuff, you know? - and dumaguete just…felt right. It’s got this low-key vibe, a bit sleepy, but with a pulse. The main drag, Rizal Boulevard, is pretty lively in the evenings, all food stalls and families strolling. I spent a good chunk of time just people-watching, trying to capture the light. It’s tricky. The light here is…intense.
I stumbled across this tiny cafe, 'Cafe Feliz,' completely by accident. Best coffee I’ve had in ages. Seriously. The barista, a guy named Leo, was a font of local knowledge. He told me about the best spots for sunset photos (apparently, somewhere near Valencia) and warned me about the karaoke. Oh, the karaoke.
“Don’t go to the Golden Night club on a Saturday. Just…don’t. You’ll regret it. Trust me.” - Leo, Cafe Feliz barista.
I, of course, went to the Golden Night club on a Saturday. It was…an experience. Let’s just say the vocal talent was…enthusiastic. And the song choices…questionable. But hey, it’s part of the charm, right?
I’ve been trying to find some decent vintage shops, but it’s not exactly a haven for that. Mostly just modern clothes and souvenir shops. I did find a little stall selling hand-painted postcards, though. Those were pretty cool. I’m thinking of getting a few to send to my mom. She loves postcards.
Food-wise, it’s been amazing. Halo-halo is a must. Seriously, get the halo-halo. Everywhere. I’ve had it at least three times a day. I also tried some kinilaw (raw fish marinated in vinegar) - a little too adventurous for me, honestly. But I’m trying to be open-minded. I’m also checking out some local restaurants on TripAdvisor - https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g1054773-Dumaguete_Negros_Oriental_Region_VII-Restaurants.html.
Someone told me that the diving around Apo Island is incredible. Apparently, you can see turtles and all sorts of colorful fish. I’m thinking about booking a trip next week. I’m not a certified diver, but I might try a beginner’s course. It would be a nice change of pace from chasing light and dodging questionable karaoke.
If you get bored, Siquijor and Bohol* are just a short ferry ride away. Siquijor is supposed to be really mystical - lots of folklore and healers. Bohol has the Chocolate Hills, which look pretty surreal in photos. I’m tempted to hop over to Bohol for a day trip.
I’m staying in a guesthouse near the university. It’s pretty basic, but clean and the owner is lovely. She keeps trying to feed me mangoes. I’m not complaining. I’m also checking out some local forums on Yelp - https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Dumaguete&find_loc=Dumaguete,+Negros+Oriental,+Philippines for hidden gems.
“The jeepney drivers will rip you off if you don’t know the route. Just ask someone for help.” - Drunk advice overheard at a bar.
True story. I got massively overcharged for a ride the other day. Lesson learned.
I’m also looking at some photography gear on a local online marketplace - https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/dumaguete/. Maybe I can snag a decent lens for a good price.
Overall, dumaguete is…a vibe. It’s not flashy or glamorous, but it’s got a certain charm. It’s a place where you can slow down, breathe, and just…be. Just be prepared for the humidity. And the karaoke. And maybe invest in a good dehumidifier. And definitely try the halo-halo. Seriously.
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