Dumaguete, Philippines: Where the Coffee's Strong and the Humidity's Even Stronger
okay, so. dumaguete. philippines. i’m still peeling the salt spray off my skin, honestly. it’s been…a trip. a good trip, mostly, but definitely a trip. i’m a botanist, you see, and i was chasing rumors of some seriously weird orchids growing in the Apo Hills. didn’t find those exactly, but i found a whole lot of other stuff. and a whole lot of humidity.
I just checked and it’s…a damp hug out there right now. 89% humidity and a temperature hovering around 27 degrees. feels like 30.6, naturally. pressure’s steady, though. good for the plants, i guess. i spent most of my time sweating through my field clothes, which, let me tell you, is not conducive to delicate orchid identification.
The city itself is…charming. in a slightly chaotic, overflowing-with-tricycles kind of way. the people are incredible. genuinely warm. i spent a ridiculous amount of time just chatting with vendors at the *Manila Central Market. Seriously, go there. It’s a sensory overload in the best possible way. You can find everything from fresh mangoes to live chickens. Don’t ask me about the chickens.
I overheard someone - a very tanned, very relaxed-looking guy nursing a San Miguel - saying that the best kinilaw (ceviche) in town is at Lantaw Native Restaurant. Apparently, it’s a local institution. I haven’t tried it yet, but it’s definitely on the list. I also heard a rumor that the owner is a former marine biologist who only uses sustainably sourced seafood. That’s a win in my book.
My accommodation was…rustic. Let’s just say the gecko population was thriving. I stayed at a little guesthouse near Silliman University. It was cheap, cheerful, and conveniently located. Check out TripAdvisor for some options - there are tons of budget-friendly places. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g676363-Dumaguete_Negros_Oriental-Vacations.html
Speaking of Silliman, the campus is gorgeous. Seriously, wander around. The botanical garden there is surprisingly well-maintained, and it’s a nice escape from the city bustle. I spent a good afternoon sketching some of the local flora.
Pro-Tip #1: Bring insect repellent. Like, a lot of insect repellent. The mosquitos are relentless.
Pro-Tip #2: Learn a few basic phrases in Tagalog. It goes a long way.
Pro-Tip #3: Don’t drink the tap water. Seriously. Just don’t.
Someone told me that the Apo Hills are haunted. Apparently, there are stories of spirits guarding ancient burial grounds. I didn’t see anything spooky, but the atmosphere up there is definitely…eerie. If you’re into that sort of thing, check it out. You can find some tour operators on Yelp. https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Tours&find_loc=Dumaguete,+Negros+Oriental,+Philippines
I also spent a day exploring the nearby Twin Lakes. It’s a bit of a trek, but totally worth it. The scenery is stunning. And the water is surprisingly cool. I even saw a few monkeys!
If you get bored, Zamboanga and Cebu are just a short ferry ride away. Plenty more exploring to be had. I’m already planning my return trip. I need to find those orchids. And maybe try that kinilaw*. And definitely stock up on insect repellent.
Oh, and one last thing. A local warned me about the jeepney drivers. Apparently, they’re…enthusiastic. Just hold on tight and enjoy the ride. You can find more information about local transportation on this forum: https://www.pinoytraveler.com/forums/.
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