Durban's Sticky Secrets & Slightly Damp Socks
okay, so, i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm coffee. 212902… that’s the number of times i’ve tripped over something on this trip, honestly. and 1180106925? doesn’t mean anything, just a random string of digits i found on a napkin. it’s become my lucky number, i guess. or maybe just a reminder that i’m perpetually lost.
this place, durban, is… intense. the humidity is clinging to everything like a desperate ex. it’s 22.56 degrees celsius feels like 23.35, and the pressure’s sitting at 1009. it’s… there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. i just checked and it’s a solid 95% humidity. feels like you’re swimming in a slightly salty, vaguely floral soup.
i landed yesterday and immediately went for a walk. the air smells like seaweed and something vaguely spicy - probably the bunny chow i’m desperately craving. i stumbled into this little market near the waterfront, and it was a total sensory overload. vendors shouting, kids running around, music blasting… it was beautiful chaos. i grabbed a few bits and bobs - a woven basket, a ridiculously bright scarf, and a small, unsettlingly realistic ceramic crab. don’t ask.
i’m staying in this Airbnb that’s basically a converted garage. it’s charmingly dilapidated, which is exactly what i wanted. the owner, a guy named mervyn, keeps leaving cryptic notes about ‘the spirits of the bay’ and ‘avoiding the blue gate.’ honestly, i’m starting to think he’s a performance artist.
someone told me that the best bunny chow is at Shak’s in town. i’m planning on tackling that tonight. i also heard that the Golden Mile is a bit of a tourist trap, but hey, gotta see the penguins, right? i’m checking out TripAdvisor for some less-obvious recommendations. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g293861-Durban_KwaZulu_Natal_Province_South_Africa.html
i spent the afternoon wandering through the Victoria Street Market. it’s a labyrinth of stalls selling everything from spices to curios to… well, i’m not entirely sure what some of it was. i got completely lost, naturally. a local warned me about pickpockets, so i kept my backpack clutched tightly. i also bought a ridiculously oversized hat. it’s fabulous.
i’m trying to capture the vibe of this place with my camera, but it’s proving difficult. everything feels so… saturated. the colors are intense, the energy is high, and i’m pretty sure i’m starting to develop a slight sunburn.
i’m meeting up with a few other travelers tonight - a session drummer named jax and a freelance photographer called liam. jax is obsessed with finding the perfect drum kit, and liam is convinced he’s going to capture the ‘soul of durban.’ i’m just hoping to not get completely overwhelmed.
i overheard gossip at the cafe about a hidden beach called Umhlanga Rocks. someone said it’s only accessible at low tide and that it’s haunted by a mermaid. seriously. i’m intrigued. i’m checking Yelp for more details. https://www.yelp.com/biz/umhlanga-rocks-durban
i’m starting to realize that travel isn’t about ticking off landmarks; it’s about getting lost, making mistakes, and embracing the chaos. and maybe buying a few too many ceramic crabs.
i’m seriously considering investing in a good pair of waterproof boots. or maybe just accepting my fate and embracing the damp socks.
Someone told me that the best way to experience durban is to just wander around and see where the wind takes you. Don’t plan anything, just go with the flow. And definitely try the bunny chow. Seriously.
i’m heading out to explore the Grey Street area now. it’s known for its street art and its… interesting characters. i’m hoping to find some inspiration for my next illustration.
if you get bored, Johannesburg is just a short drive away. or cape town. or, you know, anywhere else. i’m not really sticking around.
i’m also checking out some local forums for tips on where to find good coffee. apparently, there’s a place called “the bean counter” that’s legendary. https://www.reddit.com/r/durban/
honestly, i’m exhausted. i need more coffee. and maybe a shower. and definitely a new pair of socks.
i’m going to bed. or at least, i’m going to try.
p.s. if you see a ceramic crab, please let me know where you found it.