Dust & Diesel: Lost in the Rust Belt Glow of Gary, Indiana
okay, so, i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and regret. and maybe a little bit of lukewarm coffee. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. 26.1 degrees, 81% humidity, 1006 pressure. feels like 26.1, which is basically a polite way of saying ‘prepare for a sauna.’ i landed in Gary, Indiana, and honestly? it’s… something. it’s not pretty, not in the postcard way. it’s got this gritty, almost industrial sadness clinging to it, like a really persistent stain.
I was supposed to be photographing abandoned factories - the whole ‘decay and beauty’ thing, you know? but Gary’s factories are still doing things. They’re churning out… well, i’m not entirely sure what they’re churning out, but it smells vaguely of metal and disappointment. It’s a weird vibe. I’m staying in this motel - the ‘Sunset Inn’ - which is basically a slightly-less-worn-down version of a 70s fever dream. The carpet is aggressively orange, and the ice machine sounds like a dying walrus.
I stumbled across this place called ‘The Steel Mill Diner’ - it’s a local institution. Someone told me that the owner, Earl, used to be a *steelworker himself, and he still brings his own coffee beans in from a farm upstate. It’s a solid place, greasy spoon goodness. I had a burger that could probably stop a small car. I overheard a couple of guys at the counter talking about the upcoming demolition of the old Gary Speedway. Apparently, it’s a big deal.
Speaking of locals, there’s this woman, Agnes, who runs the vintage record store down the street. She’s got this incredible collection of soul and blues, and she’s a font of information about the city’s history. She said, and i quote, “Gary’s got a story, kid. A long, complicated story. Don’t go lookin’ for sunshine here.” Wise words. I also heard that the Gary Arts District is starting to get some traction - a bunch of galleries and studios popping up in old warehouses. Worth checking out, maybe.
I’m trying to find some decent craft beer, but it’s proving difficult. Yelp says there’s a place called ‘Iron Horse Brewery’ - supposedly they make a pretty decent stout. I’ll give it a shot tomorrow.
Someone told me that the best way to experience Gary is to just wander around and talk to people. Apparently, the locals are surprisingly friendly, despite everything. They’ve got a certain… resilience, you know?
Honestly, this place is a mess. But it’s a real mess. Not the curated, Instagram-perfect kind. It’s the kind of mess that’s been built up over decades of hardship and decline. It’s… compelling, in a bleak sort of way. If you get bored, East Chicago are just a short drive away. I’m thinking of hitting up TripAdvisor for some more recommendations.
I heard that the old Gary Power Plant* is rumored to be haunted. Apparently, there’s a spectral engineer who still wanders the halls, complaining about the quality of the coal. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.
I’m exhausted. Need sleep. And maybe a stronger coffee. Seriously, this humidity is brutal.
Check out this local board for events: https://www.garyindiana.com/events/
And for more on the Steel Mill Diner: https://www.yelp.com/biz/steel-mill-diner-gary
And of course, the Gary Arts District: https://garyartsdistrict.com/
Seriously, go explore. Just… be prepared for a lot of rust.