Dust & Distortion: Lost in Oaxaca City
okay, so, i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm coffee. like, seriously, i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. Oaxaca City. it’s…a lot. i landed yesterday and immediately felt like i’d stumbled into a slightly broken kaleidoscope. the air smells like cinnamon and something vaguely vegetal, and the colors? man, the colors. it’s not pretty in a postcard kind of way, it’s just…loud.
I’m staying in this tiny place near the zocalo - it’s basically a converted courtyard, all crumbling plaster and bougainvillea. the landlord, old man Ricardo, keeps offering me pulque, which i politely decline. he’s convinced it’ll “open my third eye.” i’m pretty sure it’ll just give me a headache.
Spent the morning wandering around the markets. it’s insane. like, sensory overload insane. mountains of mole, handwoven textiles, vendors yelling prices in rapid-fire spanish. i bought a ridiculously oversized sombrero - purely for aesthetic purposes, obviously. I overheard some drunk advice from a guy selling mezcal - ‘don’t trust the tourists, they’ll steal your soul.’ Pretty dramatic, right? I’m taking that with a grain of salt, mostly because i’m already feeling a little lost.
Speaking of mezcal, I found this little palenque just outside the city - ‘El Corazon de Oaxaca.’ It’s run by this woman, Elena, who’s basically a mezcal wizard. She showed me the whole process, from roasting the agave to distilling the liquid gold. Someone told me that her ‘Abuela’s Secret’ blend is the stuff of legends. I bought a bottle. Don’t judge.
I’m trying to document everything, you know? Like, a proper photographer would be all about the light and the composition, but i’m just…capturing the chaos. It’s exhausting, but also kind of exhilarating. I’m mostly just trying to avoid getting completely overwhelmed. I need to find a decent taco stand. Seriously. That’s priority number one.
Here’s a quick gear list, because apparently that’s what people want:
Camera (obviously)
Extra batteries (always)
Notebook (for scribbling down random thoughts)
Moleskine (because why not?)
Sunglasses (essential for dealing with the sun)
A healthy dose of skepticism
* A willingness to get lost
I heard that the street art scene is incredible here. I’m planning on checking out the Barrio de Artistas tomorrow. It’s supposed to be a riot of color and murals. I’m hoping to find some inspiration - or at least a good photo op.
If you get bored, Guadalajara is just a short drive away. It’s a whole other vibe, apparently - more polished, more…corporate. I’m not sure I’m ready for that yet. I need to soak up the grit and the grime of Oaxaca first.
I’m also trying to avoid tourist traps. I stumbled across this little cafe - ‘La Casa de las Flores’ - that’s supposedly a local favorite. It’s tucked away down a side street, and the coffee is actually decent. Not amazing, but decent. I overheard a waiter complaining about the tourists trying to take pictures of the flowers. Said they were “ruining the ambiance.” Fair enough.
Seriously, the humidity is brutal. It’s like being wrapped in a damp towel. I’m pretty sure my camera is starting to rust. But, you know, it’s worth it. Oaxaca is…something. It’s messy, it’s chaotic, it’s beautiful, and it’s completely consuming me. I’m not sure how much longer I can handle it, but i’m not going anywhere just yet.
Check out some more local spots here: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g150813-Oaxaca_Oaxaca_State-Vacations.html and https://www.yelp.com/directory/oaxaca-oaxaca-state and https://www.facebook.com/groups/OaxacaExpats/