Dust & Drums: Lost in Lisbon's Echoes

okay, so, i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm espresso. 2518559… that’s the number of times i’ve nearly tripped over a cobblestone in the last 48 hours. 1724611437… honestly, i don’t even know what that is, but it feels important, like a secret code to unlocking the best pastel de nata.

Lisbon. it’s… intense. the air smells like salt and something vaguely floral, like someone’s grandma’s perfume cabinet exploded. the humidity is clinging to everything - my kit, my hair, my sanity. it’s 1021 pressure, 62 humidity, sea level 1021, ground level 1007. yeah, that’s… a thing. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing.

I’m here because, well, because i needed a change. touring drums for a decade will do that to a guy. constant travel, constant noise, constant… well, you get it. i’m trying to find a rhythm that doesn’t involve a stadium full of screaming fans. i’m mostly just wandering, snapping photos, and trying not to get hopelessly lost in the Alfama district. it’s a maze of impossibly narrow streets, and honestly, it’s beautiful chaos.

I stumbled into this tiny bar last night - ‘O Barcão’ - and someone told me that the best gin and tonic is served there, but only if you can haggle the bartender down. i tried, i failed spectacularly, and ended up with a slightly watered-down gin and tonic and a bruised ego. I heard that the Fado music scene is incredible, but you have to go to a place where the locals actually listen to the music, not just talk over it.

Speaking of locals, if you get bored, Porto is just a short drive away. They’re a pretty serious bunch, those Portuguese. Lots of weathered faces, strong coffee, and an unwavering belief that they’re the best at everything. I saw an old man meticulously polishing his bicycle wheel this morning - it was a ritual, i swear.

Here’s the gear list, because someone always asks:

My battered drum kit (obviously) - seriously considering selling it and buying a ukulele.
Camera - a vintage Pentax K1000, because why not?
Notebook and pen - for capturing the weirdness.
A ridiculously large backpack - because i overpack.
Earplugs - essential for navigating the city’s soundtrack.
A phrasebook - my Portuguese is… rudimentary.
A healthy dose of cynicism.

I found this amazing little tile shop near the Praça do Comércio. The tiles are insane - intricate patterns, vibrant colors. I almost bought a whole wall of them, but my bank account screamed in protest. Check out their selection here: https://www.tile-lisbon.com/.

And for food? Forget the fancy restaurants. Find a tasca - a tiny, family-run eatery - and order the bifana (pork sandwich). It’s greasy, it’s delicious, and it’s the real deal. I heard that ‘Cervejaria Ramiro’ is a must-try for seafood, but be prepared to wait in line. https://www.ramiro.pt/.

I’m currently camped out in a hostel near the São Jorge Castle. It’s…rustic. Let’s just say the walls have seen things.

Someone told me the best way to experience Lisbon is to get lost. Seriously lost. Like, don't even bother checking a map. Just wander until you find something amazing.

I’m trying to capture the feeling of this place - the melancholy, the beauty, the sheer, overwhelming noise*. It’s a city that gets under your skin, you know? It’s exhausting, it’s exhilarating, and it’s definitely not for the faint of heart.

Another local warned me to watch out for pickpockets in the tourist areas. Apparently, they’re like pigeons - everywhere.

I’m heading to Belém tomorrow to check out the Jerónimos Monastery and the Belém Tower. Apparently, the custard tarts are legendary. I’m going to need a serious sugar rush. https://www.visitlisboa.com/en/things-to-do/monuments/jeronimos-monastery

Okay, I’m officially out of coffee. Time for another shot. And maybe a nap. Or maybe just more wandering. Either way, it’s going to be a long day.