Dust & Drums: Lost in the Echoes of Essaouira
okay, so, let’s just get this out there. i’m running on fumes and questionable coffee. like, seriously, the kind that tastes vaguely of regret and old socks. i landed in essaouira yesterday - which, by the way, smells like salt and something vaguely fishy, but in a good way? it’s… intense. the humidity is clinging to everything, hovering around 50%, and the pressure’s sitting at 1019. it’s…there right now, hope you like that kind of thing.
I was supposed to be filming a session drum thing for a band - ‘The Sandstorm Syndicate’ - but honestly, the vibe here is just…different. it’s not about the music, not really. it’s about the light, the wind, the way the waves crash against the ramparts. i’m trying to capture that, you know? like, the feeling of being completely swallowed by the ocean, but in a beautiful way. i’m setting up my kit near the medina, which is a total labyrinth. it’s insane. i got completely lost for an hour trying to find a decent tagine place. seriously, google maps is useless here.
Speaking of tagines, someone told me that ‘Dar Adrar’ has the best, but it’s always packed. i heard that from a guy who looked like he hadn’t slept in a week and was wearing a fez. color me skeptical. i’m aiming for Yelp, though - https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=tagine&sort_by=relevance&location=Essaouira%2C+Morocco.
My gear list is a disaster, obviously. i’ve got my sticks, my snare, my kick - the usual. but i forgot my cable for my interface. major fail. i’m borrowing a cable from a local musician, Omar. he’s a bit of a character, plays oud and sings bluesy Moroccan tunes. he’s got this crazy handlebar mustache and a permanent squint. he’s also convinced that seagulls are government spies. i’m not entirely sure if i believe him, but it’s entertaining.
I spent the afternoon wandering along the beach. the wind is fierce - like, whipping sand everywhere. it’s a proper gale, honestly. i almost lost my sunglasses. the waves are huge, crashing against the ancient walls. it’s a wild, raw place. if you get bored, Marrakech is just a short drive away, apparently.
Someone overheard me complaining about the humidity and said, ‘Essaouira is a mistress. She’ll steal your skin and your sanity, but she’ll also leave you breathless.’ Pretty dramatic, right?
I’m staying in a little riad called ‘Riad Zahra’. it’s tiny, but charming. the courtyard has a little fountain and some orange trees. it’s pretty basic, but it’s quiet. the owner, Fatima, is lovely - she makes the best mint tea i’ve had in ages. she keeps telling me to ‘breathe the salt’ and ‘listen to the ocean.’ i’m trying to do both.
I’m trying to get some shots of the fishing port - it’s a chaotic, vibrant scene. fishermen hauling in their catches, seagulls fighting over scraps, the smell of the sea… it’s sensory overload. i’m hoping to capture the energy of it all. i’m also trying to find some interesting textures - the weathered wood of the boats, the rough stone of the walls, the shimmering scales of the fish.
I’m seriously considering ditching the band and just documenting this place. it feels…more authentic. more real. i’m not sure what i’m doing, honestly. i’m just following the light, chasing the sound, and trying to not completely lose my mind.
I checked the weather forecast - it’s…there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. mostly cloudy with a chance of wind. perfect for filming, i guess.
I found a cool little shop selling vintage Berber rugs. i’m thinking of getting one to cover my kit. it’ll add a bit of color and texture. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g298431-Activities-Essaouira_Moulaid_Kermane_قليم_البحر_الأطلسي_Morocco.html
Okay, I need more coffee. and maybe a nap. and definitely a new cable.