Dust & Echoes in Izmir: A Slightly Broken Trip

okay, so, izmir. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. 21.71 degrees, feels like 20.51, pressure’s holding steady at 1018, humidity’s clinging like a damp towel - 22%. it’s…weirdly comforting, honestly. i landed yesterday, fueled by stale pretzels and the desperate need to not look like i’d been wrestling a badger.

my flight was delayed, naturally. like, three times. and the guy at the gate just kept saying ‘system update’ with this utterly deadpan expression. i swear, he was judging me. i ended up grabbing a black coffee - seriously dark, like engine oil - from a place called ‘The Rust Bucket’ near the airport. it smelled faintly of motor oil and regret, which, you know, is pretty on brand for my travels.

i’m staying in this tiny apartment near the Kemeraltı Bazaar. it’s…rustic. let’s go with rustic. think peeling wallpaper, a window that rattles like a maraca, and a landlord named Mehmet who communicates exclusively through hand gestures and pointed stares. if you get bored, *Kordon is just a short drive away, apparently. someone told me that the seafood there is legendary, but i’m mostly just hoping to find a decent wifi signal.

i spent today wandering the bazaar. it’s a total sensory overload - spices, textiles, ceramics, guys yelling prices, cats weaving through the crowds…it’s beautiful chaos. i bought a ridiculously ornate ceramic bowl that i’m pretty sure i’ll break within a week, but it’s perfect. i also got completely lost, which is a recurring theme.

“Don’t trust the guy selling the ‘authentic’ Turkish carpets,” a woman with a surprisingly fierce glare told me over a glass of raki. “He’ll tell you they’re handwoven by monks in the mountains. They’re made in a factory in Bursa. Seriously.”

i stumbled upon this amazing little street art scene down a side street. it’s not like, huge galleries or anything, just these incredible murals popping up everywhere. it felt…raw. like someone was just letting their thoughts spill onto the walls. i snapped a bunch of photos - i’m trying to build a portfolio, you know? it’s a slow burn, but i’m hoping to get some freelance gigs eventually.

i’m trying to be mindful of my budget, which is currently hovering somewhere around ‘desperate.’ i’ve been eating mostly street food - simit (sesame bread rings) are my current obsession - and drinking way too much tea. i found this place, ‘Çay Bahçesi’ - literally ‘tea garden’ - that’s just…perfect. it’s shaded, there’s music playing, and the tea is strong and sweet. it’s a good place to just sit and watch the world go by.

i checked TripAdvisor and Yelp, and the general consensus is that Izmir is underrated. which, honestly, is a relief. i’m tired of going to places that everyone raves about and then it’s just…fine. i’m looking for the places that feel a little bit broken, a little bit weird, a little bit real.

i’m also trying to avoid tourist traps. i heard that the Asansör (the historic cable car) is beautiful, but also packed with selfie sticks. i’ll probably check it out eventually, but i’m prioritizing the smaller, less-known spots.

“The best thing about Izmir?” a young man with bright blue hair said to me, grinning. “It’s the feeling that you’re stumbling upon something secret. Like you’re one of the few people who know it’s here.”

i’m heading to Alsancak tomorrow to check out the nightlife. i heard that it’s a bit gritty, but also has some seriously cool bars. i’m hoping to find a place with live music and a decent cocktail menu. i need a drink. badly.

i’m documenting everything - photos, notes, random thoughts - in a battered notebook. it’s my little way of trying to make sense of it all.

i’m also trying to be responsible with my gear. i’ve got my trusty Canon EOS 5D Mark IV, a few lenses, a speedlight, and a whole lot of tape. i’m pretty sure i could fix anything with duct tape and a prayer.

i’m thinking of checking out the Kumburnu lighthouse later this week. i heard that the views are incredible. i’ll add it to the list.

i’m starting to feel like i’m actually seeing* this place, not just passing through. it’s a weird feeling, but a good one.

i’m also trying to avoid oversharing on social media. it’s exhausting.

i’m going to go find some more simit.

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