Dust & Echoes in Oaxaca: Seriously, What *Is* This Place?
okay, so i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm coffee right now. 1709968… that’s the timestamp on my phone, which is probably a lie anyway. 1608697923 - that’s the time i last actually slept, which was, like, 48 hours ago. Oaxaca. it’s… intense. i landed yesterday, and honestly, my brain feels like it’s trying to assemble a jigsaw puzzle with missing pieces and a really aggressive cat.
It’s humid. Like, really humid. 25.58 feels like 30. The pressure is 1014, which is… fine, i guess? It’s just…sticky. I just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. The air smells like cinnamon and something vaguely decaying - probably the abundance of fruit rotting on the sidewalks. It’s beautiful, in a chaotic, slightly unsettling way.
I’m staying in this little place near the zocalo - it’s called ‘La Casa de las Flores’ which is a blatant lie, because it’s mostly concrete and peeling paint. But the guy who runs it, Ricardo, he’s a legend. He gave me this drink last night that tasted like tequila mixed with sadness and a hint of lime. I don’t remember much after that.
I spent today wandering around the markets. The Mercado Benito Juárez is a sensory overload. Seriously, a full sensory overload. Mountains of chiles, pyramids of mangoes, vendors yelling prices in rapid-fire Spanish. I bought a bunch of mole paste - it’s ridiculously expensive, but worth it. Someone told me that the best mole is at Los Danzantes, but I’m still trying to figure out if that’s a genuine recommendation or just a drunk tourist’s delusion.
Someone overheard me saying I was lost and a woman with a huge braid and a parrot on her shoulder offered me a tiny, hand-woven bracelet and a cryptic warning about ‘the shadows of Monte Alban.’ I think she was serious.
Speaking of Monte Alban, that place is… something else. It’s like a giant, crumbling reminder of how fleeting everything is. The views are insane, though. You can see the whole valley spread out below you. I hiked up there this afternoon - it was brutal. My legs are screaming. I need more electrolytes.
I found this amazing little taco stand near the cathedral - the guy’s name is Miguel, and he makes these pork tacos with pickled onions and a spicy salsa that will literally melt your face off. I heard that he uses a secret family recipe that’s been passed down for generations. I’m convinced he’s a wizard. Check out Yelp for some more local spots: https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=tacos&sort_by=relevance&location=Oaxaca%2C+Oaxaca%2C+Mexico
My neighbors are mostly older couples who spend their days playing dominoes in the courtyard. They don’t speak much English, but they’ve been waving at me and offering me little cups of hot chocolate. It’s… endearing. If you get bored, Guadalajara is just a short drive away.
I’m trying to document everything, but my camera is dying and my brain is actively trying to escape. I’m also pretty sure I’ve developed a slight obsession with mezcal. It’s potent. Like, really potent. I need to pace myself.
I’m heading to Hierve el Agua tomorrow - a petrified waterfall. Apparently, it’s stunning. I’m hoping for some decent photos. I’m also hoping to find a place that serves coffee that doesn’t taste like burnt sadness. Seriously, Oaxaca, please.
Pro-tip: Bring bug spray. Seriously. Like, a lot of bug spray. And comfortable shoes. And a healthy dose of skepticism. And maybe a therapist.
Here’s a TripAdvisor link for Hierve el Agua: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g291973-d1238333-Reviews-Hierve_el_Agua-Oaxaca_State_Oaxaca_Mexico.html
And for more Oaxaca info: https://www.oaxaca.gob.mx/
Seriously, this place is wild. I’m not sure I understand it, but I’m kind of loving the confusion.