Dust & Echoes in Potosí
okay, so, potosí. seriously. i’m pretty sure my brain is still buffering. it’s like… a pressure cooker of altitude and silver and a whole lotta weird. i landed yesterday, and honestly, the air felt like a damp wool blanket clinging to my lungs. 1011 pressure, they said. yeah, thanks. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing.
I’m staying in this place - ‘El Refugio’ - it’s basically a converted warehouse with a surprisingly decent courtyard. the owner, Ricardo, keeps offering me coca tea. like, constantly. he’s a quiet guy, just… watches. and sometimes whistles. it’s unsettling, but also kinda comforting? i don’t know. i’m running on fumes and questionable street snacks.
I spent the morning wandering around the Plaza Mayor. it’s… intense. all those colonial buildings, the sheer scale of it. it’s like stepping back a few centuries. someone told me that the cathedral’s bells are haunted by the ghosts of miners who died in the tunnels. i’m not saying i believe it, but i did hear a weird scraping sound coming from the bell tower around midnight. probably just rats. probably.
I tried to find some decent coffee. this is a struggle, let me tell you. the local stuff is… robust. aggressively robust. i ended up at a tiny place called ‘La Esquina del Café’ - it’s tucked away down a ridiculously narrow alley. the barista, a woman named Sofia, looked like she hadn’t slept in a week. she poured me a shot of something dark and bitter and said, "This will wake you up. Or kill you." i went with it.
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Speaking of locals, the neighbors are… interesting. if you get bored, Sucre is just a short drive away. they mostly just stare. and occasionally yell at me for taking pictures. i think they’re judging my backpack. it’s a beast. it’s got everything: a ukulele, a portable espresso maker (because, priorities), and a surprisingly large collection of vintage postcards.
I managed to snag a few shots around the Cerro Rico - the old silver mine. it’s a brutal place, you know? a lot of poverty, a lot of history. i felt a weird mix of awe and sadness. i’m trying to capture that feeling in my photos, but it’s hard to translate something so… weighty.
Here’s a quick rundown of my gear, because, you know, documenting the chaos:
Camera: Sony a7III (obviously)
*Lenses: 24-70mm f/2.8, 50mm f/1.8, 70-200mm f/2.8
*Drone: DJI Mini 3 Pro (for aerial shots - gotta get the angles)
*Backup Drives: 2TB SSD, 1TB HDD (don’t ask)
*Filters: Polarizing, ND filters (essential for low light)
*Batteries: Like, a lot of batteries.
*Rain Cover: Seriously, don’t underestimate the rain.
I heard that the Museo de Arte Departamental Samuel Debravo is worth a visit - apparently, it’s got some seriously cool surrealist art. i’ll check it out tomorrow, if i’m not too exhausted.
I’m trying to find a decent place to eat tonight. Yelp says ‘La Casona’ has good empanadas, but i’m wary. i’ve learned to trust my gut (and the recommendations of slightly inebriated locals). i’m thinking of checking out TripAdvisor for some more options.
Seriously, if you’re planning a trip to Potosí, do your research. it’s not a place you just stumble upon. it’s a place you seek* out. and be prepared for altitude sickness. and staring neighbors. and aggressively robust coffee.
Oh, and one last thing: someone told me that the tunnels beneath the Cerro Rico are still active. they say you can hear the echoes of the miners’ voices if you listen closely. i’m not sure I’m brave enough to investigate.
Check out this local board for events: https://www.potosi.com.bo/eventos/
And for more info on the city: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g294458-Potosi_Department-Vacations.html
And if you need a good place to eat, Yelp has some options: https://www.yelp.com/map?fid=63111&rid=potosi
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