Dust & Echoes in Valparaiso: A Slightly Broken Trip
okay, so, valparaiso. seriously. i just landed and my head feels like it’s been gently shaken by a very enthusiastic mariachi band. 215771… that’s the number of steps i’ve taken since i got here, i think. it’s a wild guess, honestly. and 1180183850? that’s the number of times i’ve muttered ‘wow’ in the last hour. it’s a lot.
the air smells like salt, paint, and something vaguely floral - probably a million overflowing window boxes. it’s… intense. the humidity is clinging to me like a second skin, 23.23 degrees feels like 35, and the pressure’s sitting at 1009. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. it’s like stepping into a faded postcard, but one that’s actively trying to seduce you with its chaos.
my gear list is already a disaster. my camera bag is overflowing, my backpack’s threatening to explode, and i’m pretty sure i’ve lost a sock. let’s see… essentials: battered leather boots (absolutely crucial), a notebook full of scribbled nonsense, a ridiculously oversized scarf (for warmth and dramatic effect), and a half-empty bottle of water. oh, and a ukulele. because why not?
i stumbled across this little cafe called ‘El Faro’ - it’s tucked away on a ridiculously steep street, practically clinging to the hillside. the owner, a guy named Ricardo, looked like he’d wrestled a few storms and won. he poured me a coffee that tasted like burnt caramel and regret. someone told me that the best view in the city is from the Mirador Cerro Concepcion, but it’s a serious climb. i’m debating.
i overheard some sailors at the docks talking about a hidden speakeasy - ‘La Sirena’ - supposedly run by a retired tango dancer. they said it’s only open on Tuesdays and you have to know the password. i’m adding it to my list. seriously, this place is a labyrinth of colorful buildings, winding staircases, and unexpected art installations. it’s a photographer’s dream, but also a potential nightmare if you get lost. i almost ended up in a pottery workshop three times.
i’m trying to find a decent place to eat. Yelp says ‘La Taberna del Pescador’ is good, but someone warned me that it’s ridiculously touristy. i’m leaning towards something a little more…local. i’m checking out TripAdvisor for recommendations.
the neighbors here are… interesting. if you get bored, Santiago is just a short drive away, and Concepción is a bit further. they seem to be a mix of artists, retirees, and people who’ve clearly given up on everything. there’s a definite air of bohemian eccentricity about the place. it’s a weird, wonderful kind of vibe.
i’m thinking of checking out the Museo de Bellas Artes tomorrow. i heard that they have a fantastic collection of Chilean art. and maybe, just maybe, i’ll finally find that sock.
pro-tip: wear comfortable shoes. seriously. you’ll thank me later. and don’t be afraid to get lost. that’s where the real adventures happen.
check out this map:
and for more info on Valparaiso, head over to this local board: https://www.valparaiso.cl/
and if you're looking for a good place to stay, this TripAdvisor link might help: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g298437-Valparaiso_Valparaiso_Region-Vacations.html
and for some local eats, Yelp has some good options: https://www.yelp.com/search?query=restaurants%20in%20valparaiso&sort_by=relevance