fez: where the medina swallows you whole
so fez. it's a lot. i just checked and it's 16°c there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. the weather here is that classic mediterranean thing-hot, dry summers that'll melt your face off (we're talking 45°c in the worst of it), and winters that are just cold enough to make you regret not packing a proper coat. rain mostly stays between october and april, which is when the river can flood and turn the old town into a soggy maze.
if you get bored, meknes is just a short drive away southwest, and sefrou is only about 15 km south if you want a smaller, quieter vibe. fez-saïs airport is also down there if you're flying in.
now, the medina. it's not just old, it's ancient. fez el-bali is one of the world's largest car-free urban areas and a unesco site, which means no cars, just donkeys, carts, and a lot of people trying not to get lost. someone told me that the tanneries here are famous-those big stone vats full of dye where they still process leather the old way. it smells... unique. bring something to cover your nose if you're sensitive.
food-wise, it's classic moroccan: tagines, couscous, pastilla. the markets in the medina are where you'll find the best stuff, but honestly, i couldn't dig up much on fez-specific dishes-seems like they just do the classics really well. lamb, spices, and sweets are the main characters here.
the people? fez is morocco's second-largest city, so it's a mix of everything. arab-berber heritage, super traditional, but also really into their crafts-leather, pottery, metalwork. it's the spiritual capital, so there's a lot of conservative dress and customs, especially around mosques. but they're also famously hospitable, so don't be surprised if you get invited for tea.
things to watch out for: summer heat is no joke, so if you're not a fan of sweating through your shirt by 9am, maybe don't come june-september. winters can be wet, and the old town floods sometimes. the medina is a labyrinth-seriously, get a guide or you'll be walking in circles for hours. and yeah, petty theft happens, especially in busy souks, so keep an eye on your stuff.
after all that, what makes fez stand out? it's the medina, mostly. fez el-bali is basically a living museum, with the oldest university in the world (al-qarawiyyin) still kicking. the tanneries, the mosques, the endless alleys-it's all been here for centuries. and somehow, it still works. it's chaotic, beautiful, and completely unforgettable.
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