Long Read

Finding an English-Speaking Doctor in Lilongwe

@Maya Stone2/8/2026blog
Finding an English-Speaking Doctor in Lilongwe

okay, so lilongwe. it’s…different. like, a lot different. you’ve probably seen the pictures - the dust, the heat, the general feeling that you’re simultaneously surrounded by life and slightly suffocated by it. right now, it's that kind of day. a sort of ochre haze hangs over everything, promising a heatwave that’s already started. the air smells like exhaust and something vaguely floral - probably someone’s trying to fight off the dust with a spray of something sweet.

brown clay pots on brown soil


finding a decent doctor who speaks English? that’s been my personal odyssey since landing here six months ago. it’s not that there aren’t doctors in lilongwe, it’s just…the language barrier hits hard. and let's be real, some of the medical facilities feel a little... rustic. but don’t panic, it’s manageable. i’ve scoured the internet (thanks, google!) and built up a surprising - and slightly terrifying - list.

basically, the whole system feels a bit disjointed. there’s this mix of private clinics, government hospitals (which are, wow, a whole other level), and a handful of international organizations that offer healthcare. a quick look at TripAdvisor gives you a decent starting point, but always double-check reviews, especially regarding English proficiency. you’ll find some folks recommending names like Dr. [Name redacted - because local gossip is a beast], but be warned, some of those reviews are…well, let’s just say they’re full of opinions.

Someone I overheard at the market said, "You gotta be careful with those new clinics. They’re all flash, but the staff? Sometimes they don’t speak a word of English. You end up nodding and hoping for the best."


*Basic Costs in Lilongwe (as of late 2023)

Okay, so let's talk numbers. The cost of living in Lilongwe is surprisingly reasonable, especially if you’re not a high-roller. Here's a rough breakdown, pulling data from Numbeo:

ExpenseEstimated Cost (USD)Notes
Rent (1-bedroom)$200 - $400Depends on location - closer to the city center is pricier.
Groceries$150 - $250Locally sourced food will be cheaper.
Utilities$50 - $100Electricity can be sporadic.
Transportation$30 - $60Matatus (minibuses) are cheap but crowded.
Phone Bill$10 - $20
Entertainment$50 - $100Varies wildly!


It's all relative, obviously. But just to give you a sense.

A local warned me about…

Honestly, you hear a lot of stories. One time, this woman - a retired teacher - told me about a clinic run by a retired doctor. She said, “The doctor is brilliant, but the waiting list? It’s like waiting for a bus that’ll never come. And the English… don’t even get me started.” Apparently, it's a popular spot, especially for those who don't want to go through the whole formal registration process. You could try looking for those through local Facebook groups. But be prepared for a wait.

Cars drive down a road with barriers.


So, where to start?

*Private Clinics: These are usually the best bet for English-speaking doctors. You’ll typically need a referral, though. I've heard some are located near Kamuzu Medical Center.
*International Organizations: Check out sites like UNICEF Malawi or World Health Organization - they often have clinics operating in different parts of the city.
*Ask Around: Seriously. Reach out to other expats, ask your network, and just generally chat with people. You’d be surprised at who knows who.

Ultimately, finding the right doctor is a process of trial and error. Don’t be afraid to call ahead, explain your situation, and ask lots of questions. And don’t hesitate to seek a second opinion if you feel uneasy. It’s 2024, folks, we’re not barbarians!

Pro-tip: Learning a few basic phrases in Chichewa will definitely help. It's not going to replace English, but it shows respect and makes things a little smoother. Good luck, and may your medical appointments be less stressful than navigating Lilongwe traffic.

**

Okay, gotta run. The sun’s starting to dip below the horizon, painting the sky in shades of orange and purple. Time for a cheap meal and maybe a little bit of regret for packing so many sandals.



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About the author: Maya Stone

Writing is my way of listening.

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