Long Read

Finding an English-Speaking Doctor in Lilongwe: My Brain Hurts (and So Might Yours)

@Gabriel Kent2/8/2026blog
Finding an English-Speaking Doctor in Lilongwe: My Brain Hurts (and So Might Yours)

okay, so, like, Lilongwe. it’s… intense. i just got back, and honestly, my sleep schedule is a disaster. i’m pretty sure i’m running on lukewarm chai and the sheer terror of realizing i’d forgotten to pack my toothbrush. but, yeah, the mission: finding a decent English-speaking doctor. it’s not exactly a walk in the park, you know? it’s more like wading through a swamp of polite smiles and rapid-fire Chichewa.

brown clay pots on brown soil


first off, let’s talk logistics. i’m talking about the cost of living. i pulled some numbers from Numbeo - it’s basically the drunk advice of the internet, right? - and renting a decent one-bedroom apartment? around $300-$500 a month. food? you can get by on $200-$300 if you’re not fancy. transport is cheap - minibuses are everywhere, but they’re a whole other level of organized chaos. seriously, it’s like a game of musical chairs, but with more shouting. you can check out some reviews on Yelp here: https://www.yelp.com/search?keyword=doctors&location=Lilongwe%2C+Malawi and TripAdvisor: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g298313-Activities-Lilongwe_Malawi.html.

now, the real challenge. finding someone who actually speaks decent English. i heard whispers - seriously, whispers - about a Dr. Banda at Queen Elizabeth Hospital. supposedly, he’s good, but you gotta know the right people. or, you know, bribe him with a really good bottle of Malawi whisky. (kidding… mostly.) i also stumbled across a Reddit thread (https://www.reddit.com/r/Lilongwe/comments/13q936g/recommendations_for_englishspeaking_doctors/) that was… informative. let’s just say it involved a lot of emoji-laden warnings.


Cars drive down a road with barriers.

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*Weather: It’s currently a “grey drizzle with a hint of mango.” Seriously. It’s like the sky is perpetually disappointed. It’s not bad, just… persistent. You’re about an hour’s flight from Zomba, which is all rolling hills and pine trees - a total contrast. And Blantyre? That’s a whole other vibe - more polished, more… expensive.

Neighborhood Gossip: I overheard a group of market vendors arguing about a new clinic opening near Old Town. One of them, a woman named Mama Rose, said, “Doctor Mwale? He’s good with the stomach, but he speaks like a parrot. You need to listen carefully.” Another guy, selling dried fish, added, “Don’t go to the hospital after dark. It’s not safe. And don’t trust anyone who offers you a ‘special’ discount.” (Red flag, people. Red flag.)


Safety: Lilongwe is generally okay, but you gotta be aware. Petty theft is a thing, especially in crowded areas. Stick to well-lit streets at night. I read on a local news site (https://www.malawi24.com/) that there’s been an uptick in motorbike robberies. Just… be smart.


Job Market (for expats): It’s not booming, let’s be real. Mostly NGOs and aid organizations. Salaries are decent, but competition is fierce. I saw a listing for a project manager at Save the Children - pays around $3,000-$5,000 a month. But honestly, the biggest challenge is the visa process. It’s a bureaucratic nightmare.


Pro-Tip: Learn a few basic Chichewa phrases. “Muli bwanji?” (How are you?) goes a long way. And always, always carry small change for the minibuses.


Okay, I’m officially out of energy. I need coffee. Like, a
lot* of coffee. And maybe a nap. Seriously, this whole thing was exhausting. Just… be careful, okay? And good luck finding a doctor. You’ll need it.


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About the author: Gabriel Kent

Coffee addict. Tech enthusiast. Professional curious person.

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