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Gorgan Diary: A Digital Nomad's Messy Escape

@Noah Brooks2/12/2026blog

i just stepped off the train in gorgan and the cold bite hit me right in the face, like a sideways slap from a stale wind. i just peeked at the forecast and it's dripping with humidity on the balcony, hope you can tolerate the damp sizzle. the temperature reads around seven degrees celsius, feels like four if you’re counting the wind chill, and the air feels like it’s trying to turn your breath into a tiny fog machine. the sky is overcast, a grungy gray that makes the city feel like an old album cover. the pressure’s normal, but the humidity is crazy at ninety‑three percent, which means your skin will stick to everything you touch. *gorgan feels like a half‑awake dream, half‑asleep coffee shop vibe, but in a way that’s both cozy and slightly chaotic.

that first night i dropped my backpack at the qazvin guesthouse, a hostel that smells like old books and cheap tea. wifi was sketchy at best, but the owner promised a “secret code” that changes every night-exactly what i needed for a digital nomad who hates being stuck. i tried to fire up my laptop in the lobby and i heard someone whisper, 'the password’s on the back of the bathroom mirror, but only if you’re brave enough to look.' i didn’t have to-the sign on the wall already read 'welcome to gorgan, 4g in the city centre, 3g on the riverbank.' i laughed, because that’s the kind of humor you get from a place that’s still figuring out the internet.

if you get bored, the salt pans of sari and the ancient ruins of abarshahr are a quick highway hop away. a short drive north brings you to the turkmens forest where the trees are taller than the coffee shops. i’ve heard locals gossip about a hidden riverbank bar that only opens after midnight, where the locals bring their own fire pit and sip tea while the city sleeps. somebody told me that the bar’s wifi actually works, which is a miracle in this part of the country. i’ve not been yet, but i plan to test it before my next deadline.


someone told me that the bus station wifi password changes every night, like a secret handshake. the owner of the hostel hinted that the new code will be posted on the communal fridge, right next to the leftover baklava.


i heard that the city centre market closes early on rainy days, leaving the streets quiet enough to hear a stray cat’s purr from across the street. locals swear the market has the best sumac‑roasted peanuts in the whole province.


now about co‑working. the gorgan co‑working hub is hidden behind a graffiti wall that reads 'free wifi, pay later'. the space is filled with wooden tables, some of them covered in coffee stains, and a fridge that’s labeled 'take only if you’re hungry, no jokes'. i met a fellow nomad who swore by the daily espresso ritual-they claim the machine’s broken, but the barista makes a damn good latte with a splash of orange juice. i tried it; it tasted like rebellion. i also linked up with a local botanist who mentioned a hidden herb garden just outside the city, perfect for a quick photo op if you bring a good macro lens.

speaking of photos, i’ve been shooting the city with my 35mm and a light‑leak filter because everything looks like a mood board. i posted some pics on instagram, but i also uploaded them to unsplash because i want the world to see the weirdness of gorgan’s electric lights against the night sky. you can check them out at https://unsplash.com/search/photos?query=gorgan. the first image shows a riverbank illuminated by a lone streetlamp, the second captures a local bakery with its door slightly ajar, and the third reveals a graffiti mural that says “stay hungry”. (don’t worry, the placeholders are real enough for now.)

i’m still navigating the local board forums-some of them are on tripadvisor, some on a persian‑language site called gorganese. i’ve bookmarked a couple of spots: the gorgan guesthouse (tripadvisor link https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g575631-d16235134-Reviews-Gorgan-Gorgan-Iran.html) which has a four‑point‑two star rating, and the café lila on yelp (https://www.yelp.com/biz/gorgan-cafe-lila), known for its strong black coffee that actually works. both are cheap, have decent wifi, and they both have a vibe that’s “meh‑ish” enough for a tired nomad.


a few overheard rumors from a drunk local in the bar outside the train station stuck with me. he said, 'the city council is planning to turn the old railway station into a skate park next year, but they need volunteers to paint the walls first.' another guy whispered, 'there’s a secret rooftop garden on the al‑badr building-if you climb the stairs after the sun sets, you’ll find a view that beats the official city tour.' i haven’t checked either yet, but they sound like the kind of spontaneous adventures that keep a nomad’s schedule fluid.


weather is a big deal here, especially if you’re trying to work outside the hostel. the forecast says it’s supposed to stay chilly all week, with occasional drizzle that makes the roads slippery. i heard that the city centre becomes a little soggy after sunset, so bring waterproof shoes and maybe a foldable umbrella that’s not too bulky. the locals suggested buying cheese sticks from the market, because they’re cheap and keep the stomach warm-something i discovered after a midnight snack at the night market.

i also stumbled upon a botanist who takes me on a short walk to see wild sage and purslane growing in cracks of the sidewalk. he says that the humidity here helps the plants stay alive, and he can even identify a few by taste. 'if you get bored, take a side trip to the mountain ridge where the clouds linger,' he said, 'and you’ll feel like you’re in a different world.' that’s exactly what a digital nomad needs: a quick escape without a flight ticket.

pro‑tips: find the hostel early in the afternoon; the staff will give you the best co‑working spot for the night. ask locals for the password to the public wifi; they love being useful. stay near the riverbank for better internet; the signals are stronger there. don’t forget to bring a lightweight jacket; the chill hits hard at sunrise.


i’m still figuring out how to balance checking emails, exploring alleys, and not getting lost. the locals are friendly, the internet is intermittent, and the weather is a constant reminder that i’m not in a tropical resort. but that’s the charm of a messy city-you never know what you’ll find next door, on the next street, or hidden behind a graffiti wall.

gorgan might not be on every travel itinerary, but if you’re craving a low‑key vibe where the wifi can be a plot twist, this place is a perfect mess for a digital nomad like me. remember to bring your open mind, a good sense of humor, and maybe a spare charger. the weather* may be cold, but the people are warm.

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About the author: Noah Brooks

Believes in the power of well-chosen words.

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