Hamburg: Cold Hands, Warm Hearts (and Questionable Currywurst)
okay, so hamburg. it’s…a lot. i landed with a thump, feeling like i’d been tumble-dried, and immediately regretted not packing more *socks. seriously, more socks.
i just checked and it’s…basically breathing ice right now, which is a mood, honestly. the weather report said something about -1.02 celsius, but my fingers are screaming a different story. feels like -1.02, too, which is just rude. the air pressure is 1014, humidity’s at 70%, and the ground level is 1012 - all numbers that mean absolutely nothing to me except that i need a hot chocolate and a blanket.
i’m here scouting locations for a potential indie film - think gritty, atmospheric, lots of rain. hamburg delivers on the rain, let me tell you. the director wants “authentic european vibes,” which basically translates to “find somewhere cheap with good coffee.” i’m a film scout, not a miracle worker.
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i overheard some guys at a bar last night complaining about the Reeperbahn. apparently, it’s “lost its edge.” one of them, who smelled strongly of desperation and stale beer, said, “it’s all tourists and overpriced cocktails now, man. used to be real*.” i think he was referring to the 70s.
so far, i’ve mostly wandered around the Speicherstadt, which is…pretty. like, postcard pretty. all those red brick warehouses reflected in the canals. it’s very instagrammable, which is both a blessing and a curse. i’m trying to avoid looking like a total tourist, but it’s hard when everything is so aggressively picturesque. i found a decent little cafe near the Miniatur Wunderland (https://www.miniatur-wunderland.de/en/) - seriously, that place is insane. tiny trains everywhere. it’s a bit much, but worth a look if you’re into that sort of thing.
people here are…reserved. polite, but reserved. i tried to ask a local for directions to a good currywurst stand (priorities, people) and got a very detailed explanation of the bus system instead. i think she thought i was lost in life, not just geographically. someone told me that the currywurst at Konig von Reeperbahn (https://www.yelp.com/biz/k%C3%B6nig-von-reeperbahn-hamburg) is legendary, but also that you might need a tetanus shot afterwards. i’m weighing my options.
my airbnb is in St. Pauli, which is…lively. let’s go with lively. there’s a constant thrum of bass and shouting, and i’m pretty sure my neighbor is learning to play the bagpipes. if you get bored, kiel and lübeck are just a short train ride away. i’ve been checking out local events on this board (https://www.hamburg.com/events/) to see if anything interesting is happening.
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i heard a rumor that there’s a secret speakeasy hidden somewhere in the Karolinenviertel. apparently, you need to know the password, which changes daily and is only revealed through a series of cryptic Instagram posts. sounds exhausting, but also…intriguing.
honestly, hamburg is growing on me. it’s messy, it’s cold, and the currywurst situation is still unresolved, but it’s got a certain…charm. a slightly grumpy, perpetually damp charm. i’m starting to think i might actually find that “authentic european vibe” the director is looking for. or at least a really good cup of coffee. you can find more info on TripAdvisor (https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g187385-Hamburg-Vacations.html).