Havana Heat & Half-Finished Rhythms: A Drummer's Dispatch
okay, so. cuba. havana. where do i even begin? i’m still buzzing, honestly. the whole trip felt like trying to catch smoke with my bare hands - beautiful, elusive, and leaving you slightly breathless. i was there for a gig, a weird little jazz festival tucked away in *Centro Habana, and let me tell you, the music scene is alive. like, genuinely throbbing.
I’m a touring session drummer, you know? Been bouncing around for fifteen years, seen a million stages. but havana… it’s different. it’s raw. it’s got this… grit to it. the buildings are crumbling, the cars are vintage relics, and the people? the people are everything. they’re resilient, they’re joyful, they’re just… there, living their lives with this incredible energy.
I just checked and it’s… a humid hug out there right now. nineteen point four degrees, feels like eighteen point six. not exactly sweating-through-your-shirt-immediately, but you’ll get there. the pressure’s at 1022, humidity’s hovering around 48%. perfect for a mojito, right?
Speaking of which… someone told me that the best mojitos in the city are at La Guarida. apparently, it’s a bit of a trek, up a crumbling staircase, but the view and the drinks are worth it. i haven’t been yet, but it’s on the list. i did stumble across this tiny bar in Vedado - El Cocuy - and the rum was… potent. like, really potent.
“Don’t trust the taxis that offer you a ‘special’ tour. They’ll take you to a cigar shop where they get a commission, not to where you want to go.”
That was drunk advice from a guy with a seriously impressive mustache. seemed legit.
My gear? well, let’s just say it didn’t exactly travel first class. I’m running a Ludwig Classic Maple kit, mostly because it’s survived more airport baggage handlers than i care to remember. I brought my usual snare - a Pearl Masters Custom - and a few extra cymbals.
Drummer's Havana Essentials:
Ludwig Classic Maple (duh)
Pearl Masters Custom Snare
Plenty of extra cymbals (seriously, you don’t want to be caught short)
Earplugs (the music is loud, and you want to hear it for days)
Mosquito repellent (trust me)
A phrasebook (spanish is helpful, even just a little)
Cash (usd is accepted, but cuban pesos are better)
I spent a lot of time just wandering, you know? Getting lost in the backstreets, soaking up the atmosphere. *Old Havana is obviously a must-see - the architecture is incredible, the history is palpable. but don’t be afraid to venture beyond the tourist traps. that’s where the real magic happens. I found this amazing little art gallery in Cayo Hueso - Galería Habana - showcasing some seriously talented local artists. Check it out: https://galeriahabana.com/.
“The salsa lessons are a scam. They’ll charge you a fortune and you’ll still look like you’re fighting a swarm of bees.”
That was something a local warned me about. Apparently, there are some legit instructors, but you gotta do your research. I just ended up awkwardly swaying to the music in bars, which was probably more entertaining for everyone involved.
If you get bored, Santiago de Cuba and Camagüey* are just a short drive away. I didn’t have time to make it to either, but i’ve heard amazing things. I’m already planning a return trip.
I also checked out some reviews on TripAdvisor https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g296842-Havana_Province_Cuba-Vacations.html and Yelp https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=havana&find_loc=Havana%2C+Cuba before I went, but honestly, nothing can prepare you for the reality of havana. It’s chaotic, it’s beautiful, it’s unforgettable.
Oh, and one last thing: learn a few basic spanish phrases. it goes a long way. And be prepared to haggle. Everything is negotiable. Seriously. Everything.
For more on Cuban culture, check out https://www.lonelyplanet.com/cuba.