Havana: Through a Lens Smeared With Mojito Residue

havana. man. this city hits like a cheap camera flash - blinding, disorienting, and somehow you end up with a photo you didn’t know you needed. just spent two weeks here shooting a documentary about *street musicians and their instruments made from trash cans and dreams. my skin still tastes like salt and regret, but my memory card’s full of gold.

i just checked the weather and it’s...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. 26.6 degrees Celsius with humidity thick enough to chew, and the locals swear the pressure drop makes everyone’s joints ache. that explains why abuela moves slower than my shutter speed on a cloudy day.

woke up at 5am chasing the malecón light that only lasts about 8 seconds before the cruise ships arrive. shot this one kid juggling flaming bottles while riding a unicycle - turns out he’s a regular performer at El Floridita, the Hemingway bar. told me he learned juggling from a tourist in 2011. true story? who knows.

if you run out of things to do in Havana, Matanzas is only a couple hours east by car. heard it’s got less tourists and more rumba that’ll shake your fillings loose. someone told me that the best cafetal ruins aren’t even on the maps they sell to tourists. ask for “los ingenios olvidados” at any roadside tamale stand.

spent yesterday bargaining with a guy selling guayabera shirts. he claimed they were “vintage” but had the tags still on. gave him half my water ration for it. worth it though - perfect for hiding sweat stains during long shoots.

“If you want to see real Cuba, go where the paladares don’t take credit cards. Bring cash. And rum.” - Some Dutch guy with a parrot

heard that the rooftop bar at Hotel Nacional is overrated but the piano player knows 300+ ballads. tipped him a peso and he played ‘Yesterday’ in 7/8 time. experimental, he said. my camera couldn’t focus through the existential dread.

“The best photos happen when you forget the camera exists. Also, don’t drink tap water unless you want to visit the farmacia twice a day.” - Local art student

packing now. left my lens cleaner in a casa particular but the hostess said she’ll mail it. probably won’t. leaving with more rolls than sense and enough stories to fill a Lonely Planet forum about street food. havana’s a film that never ends, and i just watched the credits roll. or maybe it was the sun. can’t tell anymore.

pro-tip: wear clothes you don’t care about. the humidity* will ruin them anyway.