Hitachi, Japan: Where the Cranes Sing and the Rain Never Stops (Apparently)
okay, so. hitachi. i’m still kind of damp. like, genuinely. i just checked and it’s drizzling a persistent, grey sort of drizzle there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. i’m a touring session drummer, you know? usually i’m dodging sweat and spilled beer, not… this. but hey, new experiences, right?
I was supposed to be laying down tracks for a band from osaka, but the gig fell through. classic. so, i figured, why not wander? i’d heard whispers about hitachi - something about giant cranes and a weirdly compelling industrial vibe. and honestly? it’s… something. it’s not postcard-perfect, it’s not screaming “instagrammable,” but it’s got this… grit. a quiet, determined grit.
I spent most of my time just wandering around the industrial parks. seriously, the sheer scale of the machinery is insane. cranes everywhere, like giant metal birds. i even managed to sneak into a viewing platform at one of the factories (don’t tell anyone). the air smelled like… well, like industry. but in a strangely comforting way. it’s a smell of doing. of making things.
Someone told me that the local ramen place, “Ramen Kobo,” is the best in the prefecture. apparently, the broth is simmered for like, 18 hours. i haven’t tried it yet, but it’s on the list. I did find a tiny coffee shop, “Bean & Gear,” that was surprisingly good. They had a single-origin ethiopian pour-over that almost made me forget i was soaked. Check out their Yelp page: https://www.yelp.com/biz/bean-and-gear-hitachi.
I overheard some locals chatting about a festival they have every summer - something involving giant wind turbines and traditional japanese music. sounds wild. i’m definitely adding that to my mental calendar.
“Don’t go near the docks after dark,” a very drunk salaryman slurred at me in a train station. “They say… they say the machines wake up.”
Right. Okay. Noted.
Honestly, the whole place feels a little… isolated. if you get bored, tokyo is just a short train ride away, but hitachi has its own quiet charm. it’s a place to just be. to watch the cranes, to listen to the rain, to maybe find a surprisingly good cup of coffee.
I’m trying to find some decent vintage shops. Apparently, there’s a small market on Saturdays, but I missed it. I’ll check TripAdvisor for recommendations: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g1034873-Activities-Hitachi_City_Ibaraki_Prefecture_Kanto.html.
*pro-tip: bring an umbrella. seriously. and maybe some waterproof boots. and a good book. you’ll be doing a lot of waiting around.
another pro-tip: don’t expect a lot of english. brush up on your japanese phrases. google translate is your friend.
final pro-tip:* just… embrace the weirdness. hitachi isn’t trying to be anything it’s not. and that’s kind of beautiful.
I’m thinking of checking out the local history museum. Apparently, it has a fascinating exhibit on the city’s role in the industrial revolution. I found a forum discussing it: https://www.city.hitachi.ibaraki.jp/kankou/english/index.html.
Okay, gotta go. the rain’s picking up. and i think i just saw a crane wink at me. or maybe i’m just hallucinating from the dampness. who knows?