Hoi An: Sticky Rice, Tailors, and a Whole Lotta Humidity
okay, so. hoi an. vietnam. i’m still peeling the humidity off my skin, honestly. it’s like being wrapped in a warm, damp towel all day. i just checked and it’s currently clinging to everything like a lovesick gecko - there right now, hope you like that kind of thing.
I came here as a sort of…reset. touring drums is amazing, don’t get me wrong, but the constant travel, the late nights, the questionable catering…it does a number on a person. needed some slow, some quiet, some delicious food. and hoi an delivers on all fronts.
First things first: the tailors. seriously. it’s a thing. every other shop is a tailor, and they’re all shouting at you, waving fabric samples, promising the world. i ended up going with a little place down a side street - “Lucky Stitch,” it was called. the woman, Mrs. Lan, barely spoke english, but she understood “silk” and “fitted.” got a jumpsuit and a couple of dresses. probably spent way too much, but hey, when in Vietnam, right? Check out some reviews on TripAdvisor before you go - https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g326231-d1177883-Reviews-Yaly_Customs_Tailor-Hoi_An_Quang_Nam_Province.html.
The food. oh god, the food. i’ve been living on cao lầu (those thick noodles are addictive) and white rose dumplings. seriously, find a place that makes them fresh. it’s a whole experience. someone told me that the best cao lầu is at a tiny stall near the Japanese Covered Bridge - apparently, the water they use is from a specific well that gives it a unique flavor. i haven’t found it yet, but i’m on the hunt. Yelp has some decent recommendations too - https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=cao+lau&find_loc=Hoi+An,+Quang+Nam+Province,+Vietnam.
I spent a lot of time just wandering around the Ancient Town, getting lost in the lantern-lit streets. it’s ridiculously picturesque, but also…a bit touristy, if i’m being honest. still, it’s charming. i found this little coffee shop, “Reaching Out Arts,” that employs people with disabilities - the coffee was amazing, and it felt good to support a good cause. Check out their website https://reachingout.vn/.
“Apparently, if you’re not being aggressively offered a tailor service every five minutes, you’re doing something wrong.” - overheard from a very stressed-looking couple near the market.
If you get bored, Da Nang and Hue are just a short drive away. I considered a day trip to Hue, but honestly, i was enjoying being slow and sweaty in Hoi An too much to leave.
“Don’t eat the street food after 10 pm. Seriously. Just don’t.” - a very serious warning from a local woman selling fruit.
I’m trying to be all zen and mindful, but honestly, i’m mostly just trying to avoid getting sunburned and eaten alive by mosquitos. i did find a great little shop selling natural mosquito repellent though - “Green Leaf,” on Nguyen Thai Hoc street. Definitely worth checking out. You can find more local businesses on this forum https://www.lonelyplanet.com/vietnam/hoi-an/forums/general-discussion/hoi-an-best-shops-restaurants-and-tailors.
Okay, gotta go. Mrs. Lan is calling, apparently my jumpsuit needs “a little something.” Wish me luck. And bring bug spray.
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