i almost froze my butt off digging for soviet vintage in kostanay (but it was worth it)

i landed in kostanay with a backpack that was way too light for the weather i was about to face. the plan? hunt down soviet-era vintage gems. i'd heard the city's markets still have boxes of untouched deadstock from the 80s, just waiting for a savvy picker to pull them out. plus, the cold means fewer tourists, which means more for me to dig through. we love that, right?

i just checked my phone and it's -11.84°c right now, feels like -18.83°c, humidity at 85%. it's the kind of cold that makes your breath feel like glass shards. i'm layered in three sweaters, two pairs of pants, and a scarf that's seen better days. but i'm not complaining; this is the perfect excuse to buy a vintage fur coat, which i totally did for like 2000 tenge. someone told me that the best furs are hidden behind the fish stalls at the central bazaar. i was skeptical, but i followed a local grandma's tip and there it was: a mothball-scented mink that probably kept some party official warm during the 1976 winter olympics. i scored it, and it's now my new winter armor.

kostanay sits at 53.2 n, 63.62 e, a spot that's not on most tourist radars. the city's got that post-soviet vibe-broad avenues, crumbling mosaics, and a strange mix of modern glass boxes next to crumbling brick factories. i love it. embed map:

. if you get bored, astana's just a three hour drive east, and orenburg over the russian border is about two hours north-both have their own thrift scenes, but kostanay has a rawness you won't find there. i'd say skip the guided tours and just wander the back alleys; you'll find torn banners from the 90s, old trams that look like they're from a movie set, and maybe a stray dog that'll follow you for a block.

i dug deeper into the market scene. there's a place called "bazaar bazar" (the irony is strong) where you can find everything from soviet medals to handmade lace. i overheard a conversation: "someone told me that the real treasure is the basement storage under stall 14-it's where they keep the stuff that's too 'political' to sell openly." i had to check. i asked the vendor, a grizzled guy with a fur hat, and he just grunted and pointed to a rusted door. i climbed down and found a stash of 1960s workers' uniforms, crisp and untouched. i pulled two shirts for 500 tenge each. they smelled like history and dust. another vendor warned me: "be careful with the 'repaired' items-they sometimes hide tears with messy stitching." good to know.

i also visited a small boutique called "retro revival" near the train station. it's run by a young designer who upcycles old curtains and uniforms into new pieces. she told me her biggest inspiration is the kazakh steppe. i bought a bag made from a 1970s postal uniform-unique as heck. here's a link to the local expat board for more hidden shops: Kostanay Life. they also have a thread on the best thrift spots.

the weather here is no joke. i just checked the forecast again and it's still -11.84°c. definitely not everyone's cup of tea, but i'm embracing it. the locals move fast, heads down, and they wear those huge ushanka hats. i bought one myself, vintage of course. it's from the 80s, with a red star. i feel like a cosmonaut.

i spent a day at the local museum, which is housed in a former soviet administrative building. they have a small exhibit on traditional kazakh textiles-beautiful felt carpets and embroidered suzani. it gave me context for the patterns i'm seeing in the vintage pieces. after that, i warmed up in a café that serves kompot, a sweet fruit drink that's basically the soviet answer to hot cider. it's the perfect antidote to the cold. i met a fellow traveler who's a ghost hunter (yeah, really) and he said the old parts of town are full of 'energy'. i'm skeptical, but it added to the weird vibe. i've been up for like 36 hours straight, my brain is fried, but these haul pics are too good not to post.

i'd be remiss if i didn't mention the food. i tried kazy (horse meat sausage) and beshbarmak (noodle dish with meat). both hearty and exactly what you need when it's -18.83°c outside. there's a yelp page for kostanay restaurants, though it's sparse: Yelp - Kostanay, but honestly the best places are the tiny dives near the market. someone told me that the 'shashlik' stand by the bus station is open all night-perfect for after a late-night dig. if you want to see what's popular, check TripAdvisor: Top Kostanay Attractions. also, the official tourism site of kazakhstan has a kostonay region page: Visit Kazakhstan - Kostanay.

now, i'm sitting in my hostel, writing this with numb fingers, but i'm happy. i've hauled a suitcase full of vintage coats, dresses, and accessories. i'll be selling some back home, and keeping the rest as souvenirs. if you ever want to do a vintage hunt in a place that's off the beaten path, kostanay should be on your list. just pack your thermals and bring a sturdy bag. and maybe a friend who can translate russian/kazakh signs.

i've included some snaps from the road-these aren't all from kostanay but they capture the mood. the map below will show you exactly where i've been digging.