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indore: a tired traveler's scattered musings

@Xenia More2/5/2026blog
indore: a tired traveler's scattered musings

i've been in indore for a few days now and i'm still trying to figure this place out. i just checked the weather and it's 20.06°c right now, feels like 19.9°c, humidity 68%, pressure 1020 hpa, sea level 1020, ground level 955-hope you like that kind of thing. it's actually mild, which is a relief because i heard summers hit 45°c and monsoons flood the low areas near the khan river. someone told me that the flooding can get nasty, but the city's mostly high up. speaking of which, indore's on the malwa plateau at 553 meters, highest major city in central india, so that's why nights are cooler even when days are hot. they call it shab-e-malwa, and yeah, last night i needed a blanket, which is weird for october. i'm exhausted from walking around this sprawly city.

so, if you get bored, mandu (95 km) and maheshwar (91 km) are short drives away. mandu's got ancient forts and greenery, maheshwar's on the narmada for spiritual vibes. pachmarhi and mount abu are both about 350 km for hill station escapes. i tried to plan a day trip to mandu but got lost in the chaotic traffic, typical. someone told me mandu's best during monsoons for lush views, but i'm here post-monsoon so it should still be green. i saw dry riverbeds though-saraswati and khan rivers are tributaries of shipra, but in dry season from mid-october to may, they're just dusty. semi-arid landscape, you know? no cyclones due to inland location, but monsoon rains can cause issues.

indore's a major industrial hub with over 1,000 factories and asia's longest test track? i passed by some automotive facilities, but i'm not sure. it drives central india's economy, connects to ports like mumbai and ahmedabad, but air quality suffers because of all the industry and dry landscape. someone told me that winters bring fog and worse pollution, so check air quality if you have issues. best visiting period is october-november, which is now, so i'm here at a decent time, but humidity 68% makes it feel sticky even at 20.06°c. pressure's high at 1020, so stable weather for now.

i embedded a map because i keep losing my way:see, it's central but landlocked, that's why no cyclones. the elevation gives great views, but my legs hurt from all the walking. i'm staying in a cheap guesthouse with a hard bed and noisy fan, but it's cheap. tried poha for breakfast, it was okay, but i spilled tea on myself-typical clumsy me.

now, photos to give you a vibe. first, this building with a tree:

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reminds me of old havelis in the crowded old city area. indore has some history, but the overview said limited info-someone told me the holkar dynasty ruled here, but i haven't seen palaces yet. just dusty streets and honking rickshaws.

night traffic:

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yep, this is indore at night-eternal rush hour with humidity 68% making it muggy. i got stuck yesterday, missed dinner, felt like crying. someone told me night life isn't great, but markets are busy with shoppers.

and this lit-up building:

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could be a mall or commercial spot. indore lights up, but it's not dazzling-more functional, you know? i prefer the quiet plateau nights with that shab-e-malwa breeze.

anyway, i'm rambling because i'm tired. key points: indore is high up so weather's moderate but humid, industrial so pollution watch, nearby escapes if you need nature. someone told me food is famous-i had a thali, it was heavy but good-but i haven't found amazing chaat yet. hope you like this messy city that doesn't try to be charming. if you visit, check weather first: 20.06°c now, mild, but humidity 68%-bring water and patience. i'm about to collapse on my hard bed, but at least the night's cool. someone also said winters are mild, 8-28°c, so maybe come then instead. but i'm here now, observing, exhausted, and slightly intrigued by this industrial plateau outpost.


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About the author: Xenia More

Quietly plotting to make the world a slightly better place.

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